SB 413 
.D13 P3 
1916 
Copy 1 








r»(a)>f'W\ 




Thi, 



■Na 



u.nal A 



IS iruly Ih. 
honor to '■Uncle Sam' as well as the raise 
Minnie Burgle. Mrs Mina Burgess and oth. 

We are glad to credit Mr. Burgle the honor of prodi 

It°de'se'rves a'place i'n°every"Ame'V'ican collectron^°° 



Dahlia." raised bv the cardcner ol the IVarc Island Navy Yard. San 
who named it Mrs. Mina Burgle, in honor of his wife. Unfortunately 



the best all- 



jnd red dahlia 



The Dahlia 



A PRACTICAL TREATISE 



ON 



ITS HABITS, CHARACTERISTICS, CULTIVATION 
AND HISTORY 



BY 



LAWRENCE K. PEACOCK 



BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED 



FIFTH EDITION 



PUBLISHED BY 

PEACOCK DAHLL^ FARMS 

BERLIN, N. J., U. S. A. 







P.EONY.FLOWERED DAHLIA, MRS. WM. KERR 
Showing its natural hal)it of blooming in clusters of three: showing bud, half opened, and fully-developed 
flower. Comparison with foliage shows the largj size: you can conceive the result when disbudded 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1916. by 
PEACOCK DAHLIA FARMS 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington All rights reserved 



/ 

#C1.A45G834 
m 14 1917 



€0titrnta 



CHArTKK PAGE 

Introduction 5 

I. The Dahlia 7 

II. Classification 13 

III. Propagation 19 

IV. Position, Soil, and IManiire 22 

V. Garden Cultivation 24 

VI. Disbudding 31 

VII. New Varieties 27 

V'lII. Commercial Growing 41 

IX. Dahlias for Special Purposes 45 

X. Dahlia E.xhibitions 49 

XI. Concluding Remarks S3 

XII. The American Dahlia Society 55 

XIII. Select List of Varieties 59 



illluatratioitfi 



Frontispiece — "Minnie- Burgle." page 

Psony Flowered Dahlia, "Mrs. Wm. Kerr" 2 

Show Dahlia, "Princess Victoria" (field view) 6 

Duplex Dahlia, "Mine. J. Coissard" 8 

Show Dahlia, "Dorothy Peacock" 9 

"Dahliamum" (Clirysanthemum shaped Dahlia) 10 

Staghorn Dahlia 11 

Assorted Group ' 13 

Decorative Dahlia. "Melody" 14 

Hyhrid Cactus Dahlia, "Mrs. C. H. Breck" IS 

Hybrid Cactus Dahlia, "Mrs. J. P. Mace" 16 

Cactus Dahlia, "Marjorie Castleton" 16 

Cactus Dahlia, "C. H. Curtis" , 17 

Cactus Dahlia, "H. Shoesmith" 17 

Show Dahlia, "Ethel Maule" 18 

Decorative Dahlia, "Virginia Maule" 18 

Cactus Dahlia Radium 21 

Ball Dahlia, "Dorothy Peacock" 23 

Comparative sizes, roots and plants 25 

Specimen Plant, Show Dahlia, "Storm King" 27 

Dalilia. "John Wanamaker" 30, 31, 22 33 

Spray Show Dahlia, "Dorothy Peacock" 34 

Habit of Growth, Dahlia "John Wanamaker" 35 

Paeony Dahlia, "F. R. Austin" 36 

Decorative Dahlia, "Dr. Tyrrell" 38 

Storm King 39 

Giant Century Dahlia, "Mrs. Wendel Reber" 40 

Commercial Dalilia Growing 41 

Field Views 42 

Corner of Flower Room 43 

Dahlias Packed for Shipment 43 

Dahlias Crated for Shipment 44 

E.xliibition Dahlias in Box 46, 47 

Field View of Dahlias 48 

Cactus Dahlia, "Jupiter" 50 

Decorative Dahlia, "Mrs. Roosevelt" 51 

Dahlia Exhibit 52 

Type of Century Dahlia >'. 57 

Cactus Dahlia, "Magpie" 60 

Cactus Dahlia, "Mrs. D. Fleming" 62 

Cactus Dahlia, "Snowden" 63 

Cactus Dahlia, "Satisfaction" 64 

Decorative Dahlia, "Nymphrea" 65 

Decorative Dahlia, "Jack Rose" 66 

Decorative Dahlia, " Alorocco" 67 

Decorative Dahlia, "Mrs. J. Gardner Cassatt" 68 

Show Dahlia, "A. D. Livoni" 69 

Group of Pompon Dahlias .' 71 

Pxony Dahlia "Lullingstone" 72 

Basket Century Dahlias 74 

Century Dahlia, "Gladys" 75 

Giant Single Dalilia, "Velvet" 77 

Group of Collarette Dalilias 78 

Anemone Dahlias 80 

4 



IntrDiitrttntt 



Tl 1 1£ progress made in fluriculturc in America during recent years is almost past comprehen- 
sion. (Ireat fldral esta1)lisliments, aggregating liundred^, if not tliousands, of acres of 
glass, have l}een reared with niarvelons rapidity. liundre<K of thousands of acres are 
annnally devoted exclusively to the cultivation of flowers. Thousands of horticidtural cluhs and 
societies ha\-e heen formed for the purpose of holding exhibitions and further develoiiing flori- 
culture, with most gratifying results. Everywhere greater attention is given, not only to the 
flower garden, but the floral decorations of the lawn. Nor does this interest stop with the 
autumn frosts and wintry blasts. Flowers are so greatly aiJpreciated that conservatories are 
erected and window garden-, are prepared, that blooming jilants may alwa\s be near to gladden 
the heavy hearts and revixe the drooiiing spirit w hen troubles come or cares oppress. They are 
rapidlv becoming such a necessary luxurv that many cannot and will not be content without 
them. They are, indeed, the joy alike of the rich and the poor, the old and the young: in success 
3r in adversitx- they are ever our friends, gratefidly rejiaying our small attentions with their 
profusion of bloom. 

At the lieginning of each year we dream of delightful grounds and beautiful flowers — 
flowers for all purposes — flowers so l.>eautiful that our homes [iromise to be, indeed, a para- 
dise of surpassing loveliness. Our dreams are more than realized during May and June, when we 
find roses, flowering shrubs, and bulbs in endle-s variety, to say nothing of other flowers, bloom- 
ing everywhere in the greatest profusion. But our dreams do not last. June and our flowers, at 
least most of them, bid us adieu. It is now that we need a first-class flower that will fill our 
empty vases, ijeautify our lawns; in fact a flower that will completely fill the space l)etween roses 
and chrysanthemums, when other good flowers are not plentiful. Mower after flower has been 
tried until at last it became evident that the "Dahlia" was the only flower having the proper fpiali- 
fications. As soon as this fact was realized, interest was at once aroused: skilled specialists 
began producing exquisite varieties, and the Dahlia entered on a new era of popularity. 

Not only have the older forms and classes been improved, but new types have been produced 
for special purposes. The most important of these new types are the Cactus. Decorative and 
Paeony Flowering varieties, which, with their exquisite forms, superl) colors, beautifully blended 
shades and tints, have only to be seen to l.iecome favorites with all. Dahlias are of the easiest 
:ulture: yet there are drawbacks to their successful cultivation by the amateur. Afany devote 



6 THE DAHLIA. 

considerable time and expense to their culture, and fail to get the best results, simply because 
their well meant intentions were not beneficial, to say the least. The Dahlia can be grown to 
[lerfection in every garden with Lint little care and expense, if attention is given to its simple 
requirements. 

There are, however, few American works on the subject from which the amateur can 
secure needed information, while foreign works are of little value, owing to the difference in 
soil and climatic conditions. It is to supply this long felt want and to enable every one to grow 
lovely Dahlias, even under adverse conditions, that the writer presents this small treatise to the 
American public. 

In the following chapters can be found, in a clear and concise form, such information as 
has been gleaned from years of practical experience. Particular stress has been laid on several 
facts, especialK- upon the necessitv of frequent stirring of the surface soil to prevent excessive 
evaporation of moisture. Manv think the only necessity of cultivation is to keep down the weeds : 
but, positively, weeds do little more harm than hard baked surface soil. The illustrations herein 
given speak A-olumes for themselves on this subject; the field views and specimen plants are 
reproduced from photographs taken right out in the field; in many cases after long periods of 
extended drought, and are intended to show that Dahlias can be grown successfully, even under 
adverse conditions, rather than -a'liat can be grown, all things favorable. It is the aim of the 
writer to make the path to successful Dahlia culture so pleasant and easy that all may wish to 
travel it, knowing full well that once they ;ire planted the pleasure derived will be so great that 
thev will ever after be culti\ated and highly prized. Neither labor nor expense has been spared 
in making this little treatise attractive, usefid, and true to nature, that it may receive a cnrdial 
welcome in e^-crv flower-loving home. 




THE DAHLIA. 



CHAPTER I 

THE DAHLIA. 

Tl I E Dahlia ( Dahlia \'arial)ilis of LinnKus ) i.-^ a tender tuherous rooted perennial, a native 
of Mexico, and was first discovered by Baron Humboldt in 1789. It was sent by him 
to I'rof. Cavenilles, of the Botanical Gardens, Madrid, who named it Dahlia, in honor of 
the celebrated Swedish botanist. Prof. Andrew Dahl. It was introduced into England in the same 
year (1789) by the Marchioness of Bute, who secured a plant from Prof . Cavenilles. Although 
this plant was grown under glass and received the greatest care, the stock was finally lost, and 
it was reintroduced into England by Lady Holland in 1804. In France, Spain and Germany the 
Dahlia also received great attention, and to this day is still prized as one of their finest summer 
and autumn blooming plants. Although other species were found and introduced from Mexico, 
yet it is remarkable that they should not hybridize and. except D. Coccinea, Cav., were not gener- 
ally grown. Both D. rariabilis and D. Coccinea broke into numerous colors and became general 
favorites with the botanists and gardeners, who raised many new varieties from selected seed. 
A great impetus was given Dahlia culture in 1814, with the introduction of the first double variety. 

To fully realize the wonderful progress made in Dahlias arid to get even a faint impression 
of the possibilities in this most remarkable of all flowers, it is well to remember that onlv one 
hundred and two years ago we had nothing Init the single type with lar:;e vellow centers and one 
variety with two rows of petals. 

Could Humboldt, Cavenilles cr Dahl have dreamed of a development in one century as is 
shown Iiy the illustrations herein? And here is the principal charm in Dahlia growing. There is 
always action, always something new. We cannot remain discouraged, for we know of the 
future development by the past, and who can tell what the next break will bring forth or how 
far the development will proceed along the present lines. If you fail to produce a marvel, some 
other of the hundreds of thousands of growers are sure to, and in a comparatively short time 
you can grow and enjo\- its beautv just as v>'ell as if you had produced it. 

Though the Dahlia was found so close to the L^nited States, as is usuallv the case, it was 
not introduced directly from Mexico, liut was shortly afterward introduced from England in the 
form of several iniproved varieties. In America, as in Europe, the Dahlia soon became a great 
favorite and was universally grown. 

There is one peculiarity that must not be overlooked; during thirty to fortv vears of 
constant improvement the one aim was to produce perfectly double, regular, ball-shaped flowers; 
the nearer a perfect ball they were the more highly they were prized. This type had by 1840 
reached almost perfection, and was the only type considered worth growing. At this time, and 
for many years afterward, the Dahlia was the favorite garden plant with amateurs, gardeners 
and florists. 

But as the demand seemed to be assured, the seedsman and florists continued to grow 
mainly the single and show or ball-shaped varieties, and when they had reached what they thought 
was perfection in those types, ceased to strive after new varieties and forms, but continued to 
grow and offer the same varieties from year to year. This was followed by a decline in the 
demand for roots, as some had become tirefl of the stiff form of the old varieties, and others 
having a complete collection of what was offered, began to look to other flowers for something 
new. Under these conditions, which were brought about by the florists themselves, the Dahlia 
received less and less attention as the years went by. In fact, this neglect went so far that at 
last it was almost impossible to secure good varieties true to name. To illustrate, I will give 
a few instances out of the nianv that has been brought to mv attention. In one instance three 



THE DAHLIA. 




MME. J. COISSARD. 
Tlie ideal type of Duplex Dahlias and the best variety to date 

growers offered the same variety umler three different names, while in another case one variety 
was sent out under nineteen different naines by the same concern. I, myself, a few years ago, 
bought five large collections from as many different firms, and in some cases had several varie- 
ties under the same name, and in others had the same variety under several different names, 
while many varieties were entirely worthless. Of course we must be charitable enough to believe 
it was carelessness only, yet such neglect is almost criminal when we consider its evil results. 

Fortunately, however, during this time the Dahlia was undergoing a complete transforma- 
tion in Europe, especially in England, where new types and forms were being produced to 
conform to the prevalent demand for loose, graceful flowers. The term "loose" is not used to 
denote semi-double or open center flowers, but to distinguish them from the solid compact form 
of the old varieties. 

The cactus was first in the form of [uarezzi, which was called a cactus Dahlia on account 



THI'. DAHLIA. 



^ 




NEW PINK SHOW DAHLIA, DOROTHY PEACOCK 



of its resemblance to the red cactus of the plains. As this strain developed it was divided, the 
broad, reflex petaled sorts were called Decorative and those with pointed petals called Cactus. 

None of these first varieties would now be called a true cactus (see classification), but 
other classes came quickly. The Century, a race of giant single, developed from the giant 
Decorative types: the Duplex, a double or two-row Century: the P?eony flowered. Collarette, 
and Anemone. 

As soon as some of these finer varieties were introduced, interest was at once revived, and 
as a result we now have specialists who equal, at least, the foreign growers in the production 
of superior varieties. But owing to the decadence of the Dahlia trade, through multiplicity 
of names and inferiority of varieties, it soon became evident to these specialists that they must 
work together, shoulder to shoulder, if they wished to thoroughly popularize the Dahlia. At 
the suggestion of several amateur admirers of the Dahlia, one of these specialists undertook th( 



10 



THE DAHLIA. 




DAHLIAMl'M (CHRYSAXTHEMUM-SHAPED DAHLIA). 

THE DAHLIA 



ANOTHER NEW BREAK IN 



formation of a national society, and the "American Dahlia Society," which is fully described in 
a succeeding: chapter, was the gratifying result. 

That the proper course was taken is conclusively proven from the fact that the demand has 
increased fully twenty-five per cent, each year, and that the demand was mainly for new and 
distinct varieties, while the seedsman and florists at last awakened to the necessity of offering 
only the best varieties true to name. Dahlias now form the chief cut-flower stock of the florist 
during their season in September and Octolier, when hundreds of thousands are used daily for 
all floral purposes, many times at a far higher price than for roses. 

There is really no other flower that will give so much pleasure for so little care and expense. 
It combines more good qualities than any other flower. It can be grown in the open ground, 
where it can be had in perfection by everyone from June until frost. In form as in size there is 
a greater diversity than can be imagined by those unacquainted with its many and newer types. 



THE DAHLIA. 




L'XKJLK IiAHLIA FORM 



The plant is a strong. rol)Ust gruwer. and such a gross feeder that it will gruw in any kind of soil 
if given proper nutriment. To illustrate how readily they will grow and bloom, where large 
clumps are used, I will give an e.xperience we had a few years ago. 

After planting our Dahlias and while cleaning up the cellar I came across some very large 
clumps that had been set aside. Finding that they were mixed roots, and having planted all we 
wished. I ordered them to be thrown on the waste pile, which was to be hauled away to help 
fill up a large washout. I had intended to have this washout filled up at once, but we were 
all hus\- and it went on until July, when, happening along one day, I saw several beautiful 
blooms of the Dahlia. "Mrs. Dexter." To say I was surprised is putting it mildly. Several loads 
of all kinds of rubbish had beeen dumped right down on the hard, yellow subsoil bottom, and 
growing here without any attention the plants were strong and vigorous, while the flowers were 
as fine as I ever saw. It had been a wet season, and as the shoots from the large clumps were 
so strong, thev came through nearly two feet of trash, growing luxuriantly. 



12 THE DAHLIA. 

While in the Dahlia can be found not only every color except blue, and every intermediate 
shade and tint, from the softest to the richest, but the most beautiful combinations of colors and 
marvelous blendings of shades and tints, yet it is this ease of culture, combined with its varied 
habits and adaptability to conditions, that makes the plant most valuable and popular. The 
varieties, both double and single, grow from twelve inches to fifteen feet high. Between 
these two extremes are the dwarf, the semi-dwarf and the standard or tall varieties. The 
gardener can thus select varieties of any height or habit desired for any special purpose, such 
as bedding, massing or banking, for boarders of any height, or for specimen plants for the lawn, 
x'^s a cut flower, whether for bouquets, decorations, or exhibition purposes, the Dahlia is unsur- 
passed, owing to the great diversity of form and the brilliant lustre of the colors. In size they 
vary, from the smallest of the Pompon, growing but one-half inch across, to the largest of the 
Show and Cactus varieties. Specimen blooms of the largest of these latter varieties have been 
grown seven to nine inches in diameter on stems three feet long. Such is the history and a few 
of the main characteristics of a plant that has been grown and improved for little more than a 
century, and is to-day, wherever the finer varieties are known, the most popular summer and 
autumn blooming plant in cultivation. 

Possibly no other plant shows the skill of the florist to such a marked degree, and taking 
the wonderful improvements of the last few years as a criterion, we may well ask how far the 
specialist can carry his skill. Unlike many other plants, its vigor seems to keep apace with its 
other improvements, and, as we consider these things, we must admit that the possibilities of the 
Dahlia in the future are almost limitless. If >ou admire beautiful flowers and want them in 
profusion from June until frost, plant Dahlias and you will be delighted. Xo matter how many 
other plants may fail to thrive, or whether the season is \\ et or dry, you can grow them success- 
fully if you but heed their simple requirements. 

Bedding. — Gardeners are now beginning to realize the great possibilities of the Dahlia as a 
bedding plant. For this purpose they must be of strong, sturdy, branching growth, and profuse 
bloomers, while the flowers must be of good substance, rich and brilliant colors, and be able to 
withstand the hot summer sun without fading. The height of the plant will depend on the kind 
of bedding; tall and semi-dwarf varieties for large beds, and dwarf soits for small beds or for 
low bedding purposes. Some very attractive beds have been grown by planting tall varieties 
in the center, around which were planted rows of proportionately dwarfer varieties. These rows 
may be of dwarfer varieties of the same color, or mav be of different colors as desired, there 
being no limit to the possible arrangements or combinations, owing to tlie numerous good 
varieties at command. 

Specimen Plants. — This is one of the most pleasing and valuable forms in which the Dahlia 
is grown, and, perhaps, the most popular. Any of the free blooming varieties will produce fine 
specimen plants, if large roots are planted, but one shoot allowed to .grow, and that pinched off 
and forced to branch at the surface of the ground; though on small grounds the dwarf or 
bedding varieties are generally grown. By selecting different varieties they may be grown to 
all sizes, and well-grown specimens of some of the newer varieties is an entrancingly lovely 
sight and one long to be remembered. 

Borders and Hedges. — Along open and exposed walks and driveways Dahlias are some- 
times planted with excellent results. They may all be of one color, or of different colored 
varieties of satne height and habit, according to the taste of the grower. Another useful purpose 
is to grow them in hedge form around the garden, or anywhere a hedge is desired, and it is 
impossible to imagine anything lovelier. Just think of a garden enclosed on every side by a 
hedge four feet high, two and a half feet wide and completely enveloped with beautiful flowers 
of the loveliest shades, from the softest to the richest ! Nor is this picture overdrawn. It is 
impossible to convey with the pen the great beauty of the scene just described, and it is the 
wish of the writer that every reader of this little work could have beheld this scene, just as the 
writer did one beautiful September morning about three years ago. 



THE DAHLIA. 



13 




CHAPTER II 

CLASSIFICATION. 

IT IS doubtful if two persons would classify Dahlias exactly alike. Too many classes are 
confusing. It is better to have fewer classes even if those classes are sub-divided into 
sections or groups. As there is safety in ninnbers, the writer will give the classification as 
adopted by the American Dahlia Society. 

I. Cactus Dahlias. 

A. True. Fluted Type: Flowers fully double; floral rays ("petals") long, narrow, incurved 
or twisted, with sharp, divided or fluted points and with revolute ("rolled back") margins, 
forming, in the outer florets, a more or less perfect tube for more than half the length of the ray. 

Typical examples: Snowdon, T. G. Baker, Mrs. Douglas Fleming, J. H. Jackson, H. H. 
Thomas and Rev. T. W. Jamieson. 

B. Hybrid Cactus or Semi-Cactus Type: Flowers fulW double; floral rays ("petals") 
short as compared with previous type, broad, flat, recurved or twisted, not sharply pointed except 
when tips are divided ("staghorn"), margins only slightly revolute ("rolled back"), and tubes 
of outer florets, if any, less than half the length of the ray. 

Typical examples: Master Carl, Perle de Lyon, Flora, Mrs. J- P- Mace, Kalif and Rheine- 
konig. 

2. Decorative Dahlias. 

Double flowers, full to center in early season, flat rather than ball-shaped, with broad, flat, 
somewhat loosely arranged floral rays ("petals") with broad points or rounded tips which are 
straight or decur\-ed (turned down or back), not incurved, and with margins revolute (rolled 
back) if rolled at all. 

Includes forms like those of Souvenir de Gustave Douzon, Jeanne Charmet. LeGrand 
Manitou, Delice, Lyndhurst and Hertha \'on Suttner; but docs not include Le Colosse, Mrs. 
Roosevelt, Dreer's A\'hite. Grand Duke Alexis or similar forms, v.liich fall into section B of the 
ball-shaped double Dahlias. 



14 



THE DAHLIA. 




NEW DECORATIVE DAHLIA. MELODY 



THE DAHLIA. 



15 




NEW HYBRID DECORATIVE DAHLIA, MRS. C. H. BRECK 



J. Ball-Shaprd Double Dahlias. 

A. Shozv Type: Double flowers, globular or ball-shaped rather than liroad or flat, full to 
center, showing regular spiral arrangement of florets; floral rays more or less quilled or with 
markedly involute (rolled in) margins and rounded tips. 

( The class called Fancy Dahlias is not recognized sejiaratelv in this classification, but is 
included in this Sub-section A.) 

Typical examples of Sho:v' Dahlias: Arabella, Dorothy Peacock, Gold !MedaI, John \\'alker. 
Colonist and A. D. Livoni. 

B. Hybrid Show. Giant Slwiv or Colossal Type: Flowers fully double, broadly hemi- 
spherical to flatly globular in form, loosely built so spiral arrangement of florets is not immedi- 
ately evident; floral rays ("petals") broad, heavy, cupped or quilled, with rounded tips and 
involute (rolled in or forward) margins. 

Typical examples: Grand Duke Alexis, Cuban Giant, ^Irs. Roosevelt, Le Colosse, W. ^^^ 
Rawson and Golden ^^'est. 



THE DAHLIA, 



C. Ponipun Type: Shape and 
color may be same as of A or B, but 
must be under two inches in diam- 
eter. 

Typical c x a m pies: Fair)- 
Queen, Belle of Springfield, Darkest 
of All, Nerissa, Little Herman and 
Snowclad. 

7. Pccony-F lowered or "Art" 
Dahlias. 

Semi-double flowers with open 
center, the inner floral rays ("pet- 
als" I being usually curled or twisted, 
the other or outer petals being either 
flat or more or less irregular. 

Tyf'ical examples: Queen Wil- 
liehuina, ("leisha, Hampton Court, 
Mrs. W. Kerr, P. W. Janssen, and 
I ilorv of Baarn. 



5. Duplex Dahlias. 
Semi - double flowers, with 
center always exposed on opening of 
bud, with petals in more than one row, more than 12, long and flat, or broad and rounded, not 
noticeably twisted or curled. (Many so-called Paeony-flowered Dahlias belong here.) 

Typieal examples: Big Chief, Souv de Franz Liszt, Merry Widow, Sensation, Prairie Fire 
and Mine. ]. Coissard. 




MRS. J r MACE 



6. Single Dahlias. 

Open centered flowers, small 
to very large, with eight to twelve 
floral rays ("petals") more or less 
in one circle, margins often de- 
curved (turned down or back). 
There are no distinctions as to 
colors. The type emliraces the large 
Twentieth Century as well as the 
smaller English varieties. 

Typical examples: White Cen- 
tury, Golden Century, Scarlet Cen- 
tury, Newport Marvel (of the large- 
flowered forms) with Polly Eccles, 
Leslie Seale, Danish Cross and Ami 
Barillet (of the lesser flowered 
forms). 

The Star singles and Cactus 
singles are omitted from the present 
classification scheme as not being 
sufficiently numerous or well de- 
fined vet. 




MARJORIE CASTLETON 



THE DAHI.IA. 



17 



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7. Co larette Dahlias. 

(Jpcn centered blossoms with 
not more than nine floral rays 
("petals"), with one or more 
smaller rays, usually of a different 
color, from heart of each ray floret, 
making a collar about the disk. 

Typical examples: Maurice 
Rivoire, Souvenir de Chabanne, 
Diadem, Orphee, Madame Poirier 
;ind Albert Maumene. 



S. Anemonc-ffo'ivered Dahlias. 

Flowers with one row of large 
floral rays ("petals") like single 
Dahlias, but with each disk flower 
producing small, tubular petals. 

Includes such forms as those 
of Graziella, Mme. Chas. Molin, 
Messioner and Mme. Pierre Dupont. 



C. H. CURTIS 



9. Other Sections. 
Miniature or Pompom Cactus: Small flowered, stellate fine petaled Cactus Dahlias repre- 
sented by Tom-tit, Mary, Nora, Minima. Mignon or Tom Thumb: Dwarf, bushy, single flow- 
ered Dahlias for edging. 

Typical examples: Jules Closson. Bedding Dahlia: A taller, more upright type than the 
Tom Thumb. Typical examples: 
Barlow's Redder and Midget Im- 
proved. Cockade of Zonal Dahlias: 
Single or collarette Dahlias, with 
three distinct bands of color about 
center. Type hardly known in 
America, but includes such forms as 
those of Cockade Espagnole. 

In the above classification too 
little attention was given to the 
Single Dahlia. The various classes 
and types range in size from 2 inches 
to 10 inches in diameter, and a still 
greater variation in form, type, etc. 

The Century is the most valu- 
able section and the new intermedi- 
ate varieties must be classified as 
self-colored, zonale, penciled, mar- 
gined, etc. 

Double Dahlias are classified 
according to form. Single Dahlias 
must be classified by size and color 
markings. ~ H SHOESMITH 




18 



THE DAHLIA. 



In ciinnection with the above 
cla^silicatioii, it may be well to 
call atteiitidii to the particular 
wording. I'he classes are de- 
scribed and defined by typical ex- 
amples: but it is not safe to go 
indiscriminately liy names, as 
many varieties \ary at times 
Therefore it is well in entering 
at exhibitions to remember that 
name alone will not carry a vari- 
ety through, but the flower must 
conform to the standard of that 
class, and anv flower that does 
conform to that class should be 
eligible. 

Then there are tlie many 
other types that will undoubtedly 
be taken care of in the future. 
For instance, there has been a 
general idea that all open cen- 
tered flowers are Pjeony-flower- 
ing. It would be a mistake to 
make a separate class for each of 
these types, as much as it was a mistake to an open-center type Paeony flowered, as the general 
conception of the Paeony is a fully double flower, and the near future will show the ideal, 
perfectly full or double Pseony Dahlia. This type is alread\ in existence with a row long, 
broad rays or petals and the shorter more irregidar center petals. 

It would seem, therefore, that in the future the present classes would be subdivided into 
sections in order to encourage the development of distinctively new, novel or unique types, as 
well as the development of the existing classes. 



SWEET-SCEXTEl) DAHLIAS. 




XEW WHITE SHOW D.\HLI.\, ETHEL MAULE 



This is a lield that ott'ers great oiii)or- 
tunity. Twentieth Century and Fringed Twen- 
tieth Century are notalile examples, and there 
are many other varieties that are more or less 
fragrant. The great trouble is that breeders 
look for distinctive flowers of large size, fine 
form, etc., while as a matter of fact the only 
clove-scented Dahlias the writer has seen were 
nondescript blooms in the dift'erent ball and 
single classes. 

The .American Dahlia Society has done 
wonderfully well since its reorganization, and 
the near future will undoubtedly see a vearh- 
])rice for the most distinctive new variety of 
the year as well a< the best, as within the~e 
two lines depend the interest and future popu- 
larity of the Dahlia. 




DAHLEA. VIRGINLA .M.AULE 



THE DAHLIA. 19 



CHAPTER III 

PROPAGATION. 

THERE are four methods by which DahHas are propagated — Ijy cuttings, division of roots, 
and by grafting to perpetuate existing kinds, and by seeds to produce new varieties. 
Division of Roots. — This is the easiest and most satisfactory to amateurs, and is so 
simple as to scarcely need description. As the eyes are not on the individual tubers, but on the 
crown to which the tubers are attached, care mitst be taken that each division has at least one eye. 
It is, therefore, best to start the eyes by placing the roots in a warm, moist place a short time 
before dividing. The roots are sometimes placed in a hot-bed, and the shoots grown to consid- 
erable size, then divided and set out as plants; but as this plan has many drawbacks, I would not 
advise it. 

By Cuttings. — This method is used mainly L)y commercial growers, and though the amateur 
may easily propagate plants successfully, the attention a few cuttings would require would be 
so great that it would be cheaper to buy the plants. However, as it may be of interest to 
some, I will describe how Dahlias are propagated by this method on commercial places. The 
roots are planted closely in benches in the greenhouse early in January, and cuttings are made 
from the young shoots as fast as they form the third or fourth set of leaves. These cuttings 
are carefully trimmed and placed in pure sand in the propagating bench, using a dibble, and 
putting the cuttings in rows two or three indies apart and about a half inch between the 
cuttings. The propagating bench is made by running a flue, hot water or steam pipes beneath 
an ordinary bench, and boarding up the sides to confine the heat. Although there may be a 
difference of opinion among propagators, yet a bottom or sand heat of 65 degrees, with the 
temperature of the house from 5 to 10 degrees less, will give the best practical results. W'hh this 
temperature the cuttings will root in about two weeks and will be far stronger than if rooted 
in less time with greater heat. As soon as the cuttings are rooted thev are potted off into small 
pots and grown in a cool greenhouse until danger of frost is over, when thev are planted out 
in the open ground. 

By Grafting. — This is a very interesting, though not profitable, mode of pro])agation. The 
top of the tuber is cut slantingly upward, and the cutting slantingly downward, placed together 
and tied with any soft, handy material. They are then planted in a pot deep enough to cover 
the lower part of the graft with earth, and they will soon adhere if placed under a hand glass 
or in a frame. But as grafting has no advantages over the ordinarv mode of ])rn[)agation by 
cuttings, it is seldom practiced. 

By Seeds. — Though many grow Dahlias from seed instead of planting roots, yet seeds are 
generally planted to produce new varieties only. This being the case, the matter will be fully 
treated in another chapter under the head of new varieties. 

Excessive Pro[>agation. — I know of no otlier name for it, and must say that whoever is 
guilty of it is doing a great deal of harm to Dahlia culttu'e. By excessive propagation is meant 
the forcing under glass not only of the roots but plants grown from the roots, often two or 
three times removed. In this way many good varieties are so run down that they come abso- 
lutely single, and it takes a year or two for them to recover their old-time vigor. Especially 
do florists make a mistake in forcing their new introductions in this way, as they always lose 
in the end. 

A number of \ears ago a firm in England introduced a very fine Dahlia, and to meet the 
enormous demand the stock was forced imder great heat ; as a result the cuttings were so weak 
that they made poor, delicate plants, and the few flowers produced had large open centers, many 
being almost perfectly single. Consequently everv one was disappointed and considerable monev 



20 THE DAHLIA. 

was refumled. Now mark the ser|uel. The next year the flowers came perfectly double again, 
but it was too late for the introducers ; they had paid the penalty of their excessive greed. 

There are many reasons why these facts should be known by all who grow Dahlias, though 
the main reason is that every variety will be grown at least two years, and not discarded because 
they fail to come perfectly full the first year. Had this fact been universally known, it would 
have saved considerable loss and disappointment, as, undoubtedly, many sorts discarded in the 
past were really fine varieties. Therefore, if you purchase a new highly praised variety and it 
should not answer quite to the description, do not condemn it too soon, but grow it at least 
two more years. During this time it will, if properly cultivated, show its true characteristics ; 
and if it still proves inferior, write to the source from which it was secured, making your 
complaints. 

If this practice of waiting a year or two was always followed, many complaints would 
never be written at all, as varieties are very apt to vary under dififerent conditions and according 
to the seasons. A variety may be pure white this year, yet come tinted pink next, and vice versa. 
As an example I will mention the Decorative-Cactus Dahlia "Nymphasa." This variety, under 
favorable conditions, is of a beautiful, clear, light shrimp pink color, and has a delicate refined 
Water Lily fragrance, but is devoid of fragrance and almost pure white during an excessively 
wet, cold and cloudy season, or very late in the autumn. Of course if an entirely distinct variety 
is received it is something else, and a complaint together with a flower should be sent at once. 

Division of roots is not only the easiest and best, but far the cheapest of the three methods 
of propagation, and the o.ie followed, as far as possible by all growers. However, with new or 
rare varieties, where it is not so much cost as quantity, division is entirely inadequate to the 
occasion, as it would take several years to secure even a limited stock. Accordingly, new and 
rare varieties are propagated from cuttings and offered as plants, or are grown another year 
and offered as field, or pot roots, at a price within the reach of all. It will thus be seen that a 
thorough knowledge of the art of propagation is very useful, but that evil will always result 
from its being carried too far. 

In buying Dahlias it is always wise to give strong field roots the preference, as they give the 
best results the first year ; but, as the roots are easily kept from year to year, the main object is 
to get the best varieties, regardless of the form in which they are ofl?ered. 

It is well to state here that in some instances claims are made that the best results can be 
obtained from plants, and, in other cases, that huge roots only will give the best results. This i? 
largely a matter of opinion and conditions, but I cannot give too strong a warning against 
planting the same old roots from year to year. I would rather have a very small young root 
or bulb than a very large old root. I have seen Dahlias grown and handled carelessly for several 
years ; each year the new roots were broken and the old root planted until when they reached us 
some tubers weighed several pounds each ; a series of crowns with eyes were on each of these 
monster bulbs (not clumps of roots). We cut off two-thirds of the bulb and split the top section 
remaining to eyes, leaving in this way only enough to start the plant ofl^, which immediately 
made new tubers, and we harvested a splendid crop of young stock. 

These huge, several-year-old roots are generally hollow in the center if not actually decay- 
ing. They send very strong shoots, but as they furnish so much to the plant quickly, it does not 
throw out such strong, vigorous roots of its own, and is particularly susceptible to heat, drought 
or any other unfavorable condition. 

For the strongest and most sturdy plant you want the shoot to send out its own feeding 
roots, rather than to be nourished by the huge mother root. Therefore, in planting your Dahlias 
cut away the two or more year-old roots, using only the new ones, and see how much better they 
will grow. 

This is of course on the basis that you have handled your roots carefully. If all the young 
roots have broken necks, you will have to plant the old one, but cut part of it away, so as to get a 
good strong plant on its own feeding roots. 



THE DAHLIA. 



2] 



\ f 




W? " 




CACTUS DAHLIA RADIUM 



22 THE DAHLIA. 



CHAPTER IV 

POSITION'. SOIL AND MAXURE. 

ONE of the most important points in Dalilia culture is to select a suitable location, for unless 
they are planted in an open situation, where the)- can g-et plent\- of sun and air, the best 
results cannot be obtained. True, they will grow and a-ive some blooms in almost any 
position, even where shaded by trees and buildings : but, as no plant is perfectly satisfactory 
except at its best, it is always advisable to give such position and conditions as will cnnduce to its 
highest state of development. 

The best position for Dahlias is in the garden, where, with l)Ut little attenticjii, thev will 
grow lu-xuriantly and bloom profusely during the entire summer and autumn. The house can 
thus be filled with lovely flowers at a time when, owing to the scarcity of other flowers, they are 
most appreciated. Beside the garden. Dahlias may be planted along fences, singly or in groups on 
the lawn, and in beds of any size or form desired, with most pleasing results. -\ large group or 
bank of the profuse blooming varieties, planted in a corner or on one side of the grounds in such 
manner that each succeeding row is higher than the one before it, is most beautiful and effective. 

Another favorite position is along an exposed walk or drive, where they may be planted 
on either side and make a ver\- attractive border. It must be remembered that the Dahlia requires 
plenty of sunlight, air and water, and it will nut grow vigorously or bloom [.rofusely where these 
elements cannot be obtained. 

If planted in the shade of buildings, thev will make a tall but soft growth of plant and 
will bloom but sparingly ; while in the shade of trees their position is even worse, as they are not 
only robbed of sunshine by the branches above, .but of moisture liy the roots beneath. There- 
fore, plant your Dahlias where nothing- will obstruct the sunlight and the free circulation of 
air above, or rob them of moisture from beneath, and }-ou have taken the nmst important steps 
toward their successful cultivation. 

The soil is not so important, -except in its ability to hold moisture during severe drouths. 
Any rich soil that will grow corn will also gro\v Dahlias to perfection, if all other conditions 
are favorable. They will grow equally well in clear sand, clay or gravel, if the proper kinds and 
quantities of plant food is added and thoroughly worked in. While Dahlias will adapt themselves 
to any soil, it may be well to state, however, that a good sandy loam is especially adapted to their 
culture, owing to its drouth resisting qualities. Yet this is not of great importance, as everything 
depends on the_ treatment given and the fertility, rather than the quality, of the soil. 

Fertility goes hand in hand with position and is of great importance; for no matter where 
you plant your Dahlias or how good your treatment, they will not grow luxuriantly or bloom 
freely unless there is abundance of available plant food in the soil. The plants being strong, 
robust growers, are not particular as to what particular form or kind of fertilizer is given, 
provided it contains the necessary elements required for their development. Any kind of well 
rotted manure that is most convenient will give equally good results, if sufficient quantity is well 
worked into the soil. 

It is always best to broadcast the manure and plow or spade it into tlie soil, while it is 
absolutely necessary if it is not well decomposed. On heavy, clay or gravelly soils, loose, coarse 
manure may be used (broadcasted and plowed or spaded in of course) with excellent results, as 
it lightens the soil and allows a freer root growth, but on light or sandy soils the manure should 
always be fine and well rotted. 

Commercial fertilizers are also largelv used, and are most valualile when used in connection 



THE DAHLIA. 



23 



with manure. Any good fertilizer, rich in ammonia and phosphoric acid witli a hberal amount 
of potash, will answer at the time of planting, hut as a to]) dressing- later, I have fmnid nothing 
that would equal pure bone meal and nitrate of soda in proportion — si.\ parts bone and one part 
soda. 

Of equal or greater importance is the handling of very rich soils, for if the soil is too rich, 
there will be too heavy a plant growth and consecjuent falling off in the quantity and quality of 
blooms. I cannot advise the amateur too strongly to withhold using any fertilizer whatever in 
planting if his soil is already very rich. Especially is this the case on heavy soil until the plants 
commence to bloom. This, however, is for the ordinary way of growing Dahlias. 

If you disbud your plants as described in another chapter, it will make no difference how 
rich \ou make your soil. In fact it takes very rich soil to produce those 10- to 12-inch exhibition 
blooms. 

A few }-ears ago a friend wrote me that he wanted Dahlia blooms ; for four years he had 
bushes only. In reply to my letter he sent a diagram of his place, located on the south side of a 
large grove. I suggested he dig a trench along his line and give his Dahlia bed a cheesecloth 
cover. He now takes first prizes. There is no place you cannot grow Dahlias if you will overcome 
the local obstacle. 

If vou want Dahlias under a maple tree you might have to build a concrete floor and sides 
for the Ijed, but with ample drainage you can grow fine Dahlias, particularly those tender varie- 
ties, like Cockatoo, that is liable to burn in the sun. 




B.^LL DAHLI.\, DOROTHY PEACOCK 



24 THE DAHLIA. 



CHAPTER V 

GARDEN CULTIVATION. 

THE garden is the place preeminently adapted to Dahlia culture. It is here tliat they may 
be grown, in all their loveliness, with so little care and expense that no lover of flowers 
can afford to be without them. They grow so luxuriantly and bloom so profusely that 
even a few plants, properly cared for, will furnish a fresh bouquet almost daily from June 
until frost, while a collection of the finer varieties are ever a source of great pleasure. 

Dahlias are offered in five forms : Immense clumps, strong field roots, pot roots, green 
plants and seeds (see next page for comparative sizes). The clumps give the best results the 
first year, but are entirely too large and unwieldy for anything but a local trade. The strong 
field roots are the most valuable, as they can be easily and safely handled, and always give satis- 
factory results. Pot roots are largely used in the mailing trade, and, while they will not give as 
good results the first year, are valuable for shipping long distances where larger roots could not 
be profitably used, owing to heavy transportation charges. 

Green plants are mainly used to make up any deficiency in the field crops, owing to unfav- 
orable seasons, or an unusual demand for certain varieties. Many firms, who offer field roots 
only, send out strong green plants, rather than disappoint their customers by returning their 
money, after the supply of roots is exhausted. This I consider a very good plan, as the plants 
will bloom equally as well if they receive careful attention, and will make good roots for the 
following year. 

There is a diversity of opinion as to the proper time to plant Dahlias, but I have always 
found it best to plant early, and would advise planting large, strong roots about two weeks before 
danger of frost is over. This would be, in the vicinity of Philadelphia, about April 15th, and as 
it takes from two to three weeks for them to get up through the ground, there will be no 
danger, while your plants will bloom that much earlier. It is best, however, not to plant small 
roots or green plants until danger of frost is over — in the vicinity of Philadelphia about the 
1st of May to the 10th of May, according to the season. Therefore, a good rule to follow every- 
where would be to plant small roots and green plants as soon as danger of frost is over and 
large roots about two weeks earlier. 

However, if you wish special flowers, say, for exhibition in September, would advise planting 
about June 1st to 10th, and as late as July for exhibition blooms in October. 

The first requisite of successful garden cultivation is to thoroughly stir the soil to consid- 
erable depth, and enrich it, if it is not already so, by broadcasting and plowing or spading in a 
good coat of well rotted manure. Too much stress cannot be placed upon the thorough prepa- 
ration of the soil, as it not only allows the roots to go down deep after the moisture more readily 
during dry weather, but affords good drainage during excessive rains. Having prepared the soil 
as above, mark out rows four feet apart and six to eight inches deep, and plant the roots from 
eighteen inches to three feet apart in the row, according as you wish a solid row or specimen 
plants. If perfectly symmetrical specimen plants are wanted, they should be planted at least four 
feet apart each way. which allows plenty of room for the circulation of air between the plants 
and a larger surface from which they can draw nourishment and moisture. 

SINGLE STEM BRANCHING SYSTEM. 

Before covering the roots, spread a small shovelful of well rotted manure in each space 
between the roots, and a small handful of fertilizer to two spaces, taking care tliat the manure 



THE DAHLJy\. 



25 




Fig. 4. Stem of Plant under New Single 
Stem Branching System. 



Fig 5. Pot Roots. 



Comparative Sizks. 



26 THE DAHLIA. 

and fertilizer do not come in contact with the roots. This done, cover the rows witli plow, hoe 
or any other convenient method. As soon as the shoots appear, remove all but the strongest one 
and pinch that one off, thus forcing it to branch at the surface of the ground. By this method 
the entire strength of the root and the soil is concentrated on the one shoot, causing it to grow 
vigorously; while the pinching or cutting back of the shoot not only causes it to branch at the 
surface and thus brace it against all storms without staking, but also removes all of those first 
imperfect, short-stemmed flov/ers that appear on some varieties. (See cut, page 25, showing 
how the plants branch, also illustration of field of Dahlias, page 6, grown under this system 
w ithout staking. ) 

I am, I think, the first to use and advocate this method of cultivation, and, by its practice, 
have grown many thousands of Dahlia blooms on stems from eighteen inches to two feet long : 
selling them to florists, bv the thousands, for four times the ruling price of carnations and higher 
than that asked for roses. 

Another method of growing on single branched stems is fully described under the chapter 
of disbudding, and the result shown in the plant of John W'anamaker on page 35. 

During its earlv stage of development the Dahlia grows very rapidly, and should be kept 
thoroughly cultivated; tliat is, the rows should be kept scrupulously clean by frequent hoeings, 
and the space between the rows fre(|uentlv and deeply stirred. Among the many benefits thus 
derived is to make the iilant root deeply, Init it nuist lie remembered that while deep cultivation is 
beneficial during its early stage of development, it is almost fatal to the production of flowers 
if practiced after the plants come into bloom. Therefore, when vour plants connnence to bloom, 
cease deep cultiz'atioii and stir the soil to the depth of one or two inches only, but stir if often, 
and never allow the surface to lH\-onie bard and Imlced. This will net only prevent excessive 
evaporation of moisture and keep the under soil cool and moist. Init will also prevent the destruc- 
tion of immense quantities of feeding roots. 

The nearer the directions for preparing the soil and planting the roots are followed, the 
longer the plants will continue to grow and Ijloom freclw for the roots push out in every 
direction in search of nourishment and moisture, thus fornn'ng a complete network of strong, 
vigorous feeding roots. This immense svstem of routs not unK more than supply the needs of 
the plant, but enal;les it to withstand exti'eme droughts, o\\'ng to the large amount of moisture 
they bold in reserve. 

.\s long as the roots supply more nourishment than is needed to support the plant, both 
the plant and the flowers increase in size and beauty : bur as the supply gradually becomes 
exhausted, the plants cease growing and the fiowers become much smaller. This condition is 
what is generally called "bloomed out," but what is really "starved out," and can easily be 
prevented if the proper attention is given to the plants. As soon as the flowers commence to 
grow smaller, broadcast around each plant a small handful of pure bone meal and nitrate of 
soda, in proportion si.x parts bone to one part soda, and carefully work it into the soil. 

This will be carried down where the roots can reach it by the first rain, and will restore 
full vigor to the plants and size to the flowers. In the absence of above mixture, any good 
fertilizer rich in ammonia and phosphoric acid will give excellent results. This top dressing, and 
a thorough stirring of the soil from time to time as already advised, will insure an abundance of 
beautiful flowers until the plants are killed down by severe frosts. 

As soon as the plants are killed bv frost, lift the roots, and, after removing all the soil from 
them possible, allow them to dry in the air for a tew hoiu's. when they should be stored in the 
cellar or some other cool place secure from frost. If your cellar is very di-y or is pot frost proof, 
])ut the roots in a barrel or box and cover completely with dry sand or some other suitable and 
convenient cnaterial, such as saw dust or tan bark, to prevent freezing or loss of vitality by 
drying and shriveling. Roots handled in this wa\' will keep safely over winter, and will be in 
excellent condition for | lanting the following spring. 

Staking. — It has alw ays been thought necessary to tie Dahlias up to stakes to prevent them 



THE DAHLIA. 




SXOW-WHITE SH( i\V DAHLIA— Si URM klM. ( I'.LIZZARD ) 



From photograph taken of a specimen plant in full bloom. Grown nnder the single-stem branching system, 

as described herein 

from being- blown (Ujwn liy lieavv winds, Itut how much more lieautiful is a field or collection 
of Dahlias in full bloom witliout stakes. The system of staking is not only unsightly during the 
early stage of their growth, but is attended with considerable labor and expense. Staking, 
however, is unnecessary if the directions already given on page 26 are followed, as the plants 
will branch out at the surface of the ground and the stems will become so heavy as to resist the 
strongest winds. It may not be out of place to add that this is the best method for growing 
Dahlias, as the plants are one-third dwarfer, compact and regular in form, and produce much 
finer flowers on long stems well supplied with buds and foliage. 

Wateriiii:;. — This is a debatable subject, and although a judicious application of water during 
a severe dry spell is very beneficial, yet in nine cases out of every ten where water is applied a 
thorough stirring of the surface soil would give better results ; not that I am opposed to watering 
where it can be done thoroughly and conveniently, but it is much better and easier to save the 
moisture already in the soil than it is to put moisture in the soil artificially after nature's stipply 
has been wasted. The soil acts as capillary tubes, thus drawing the moisture to the surface, 
where, if unchecked, it is rapidly evaporated. If the surface is stirred this waste is prevented, 
as the dry loose soil completely seals those small tubes, and the moisture is held in reserve beneath 
until it is required and removed by the plant. It is really astonishing how long Dahlias will with- 
stand the drought if they are not planted too closely and the soil is properly stirred. 



28 THE DAHLIA. 

Many people believe Dahlias should be watered every evening, and as soon as they are up 
commence watering them daily unless it rains. This practice is very injurious, as it causes a 
rapid but soft growth; and, as the soil is seldom stirred, the roots become so enfeebled for want 
of air that they are unable to supply the needs of the plant; as a consequence, but few buds are 
formed, and they generally blast before developing into flowers. 

In other cases, as the enthusiasm wears oil. watering is stopped, probably, right at the begin- 
ning of a severe drouth, and the weak, pampered plants are fortunate to survive, much less bloom. 

If large, strong roots are planted and the soil is kept thoroughly stirred, there will be little 
need of artificial watering until after the plants come out in full bloom. However, if it should 
become hot and dry after your Dahlias come into bloom, it would, if convenient, be very bene- 
ficial to give them a thorough watering once each week or ten days during the continuance of 
the drouth. But care must be taken to stir the soil to the depth of one to two inches the next 
day, carefully pulverising it later, in order to scol those natural capillary tubes by zvhich the 
moisture is evaporated. 

The best rule to follow is noi to allow your plants to sutler from want of moisture, nor 
to water them except they need it, but to water them thoroughly when you do water them, and 
not to allow excessive evaporation for want of frequent stirring o" *he soil. 

One of the chief sources of complaint from the amateur grower, namely, large plants and 
few or no blooms, can be avoided very easily. Generally this is caused by the soil being too 
rich, causing the plants to make large growths, and unless the season is very favorable foi 
Dahlias and the best attention given, there is a very scant supply of blooms. In many cases the 
flowers open imperfectly, few flowers, under size and so forth. In our case, where the soil is very 
rich, it is best to simply plow or spade up the soil and plant Dahlias without any fertilizer or 
manure whatever. This will check the growth of the plants somewhat and cause them to bloom 
earlier, and as long as the flowers are of good size, no other nourishment is needed. Of course, 
after the flowers become smaller in size, it is well to give them a top dressing of some quick and 
active fertilizer, especially bone meal. Nitrate of soda should be avoided on any soil where there 
is a heavy growth of plant. 

The object sought in growing Dahlias — fine, large flowers, and lots of them — is best obtained 
by feeding the flowers after the plant has developed rather than by feeding the plant before the 
flower appears. 

All Dahlia blossoms should be cut before they have quite reached their best, unless for 
exhibition, and singles, which are quite shortlived, should be taken before they are fully 
unfolded, to insure satisfactory retention of petals. The pompon, show and fancy types, last 
longest after cutting, although many of the decoratives are excellent in this regard and some of 
the cactus and psony-flowered types. 

The singles are not good for continuous use in bouquets as the petals drop soon after 
cutting, if fully opened flowers are chosen. 

The beauty and daintiness of these flowers render them admirable, however, for vase 
decoration for a dinner or a reception ; and their freedom of bloom makes the frequent refilling 
of the vases in home decoration very easy. Collarette Dahlias seem to withstand wilting and hold 
their petals much better than the singles, although apparently differing from them so slightly. 

Unfortunately too many of our handsomest cactus and paeony-flowered Dahlias are either 
weak-stemmed, requiring wiring for vase or bouquet use, or are too soft in texture to "hold-up" 
well after cutting. Breeders are now working, with success in sight in several cases, to over- 
come these faults, so we may soon hope to hav many varieties as satisfactory' in these respects 
as thev are in color and form. 

Pests. — Fortunately the Dahlia has few serious pests to contend w^^^^ough numerous 
diseases and insects may at times cause annoyance. 

No diseases are discussed in any of the published works on the C^^BP-biif the tubers 
occasionaly rot in the field, though more frequently in storage, from ^^Tattack of fungi. 



THE DAHLIA. 29 

Recently there has been reported from various sections a pecuhar dwarfing or stunting of plants 
from some unknown cause, probably from obscure physiological disturbance or from weather 
injury : and powdery mildew sometimes afi'ects leaves and stems in late summer. This last trouble 
yields readily to spray treatment. 

Insects and some otlier low forms of animal life are far more troublesome, Ijui ordinarily noi 
serious menaces to Dahlia culture. 

In moist seasons and in localities where slugs have liecome common they are frequently 
very annoying, as they may eat the bud or the tender sprout below ground, or scrape the outer 
surface of the lower stem until it is practically girdled and the plant dies. They also occasionally 
climb the stem and feed on the younger leaves. As they are most active at night and crawl into 
holes or crevices in the ground or hide under stones or lumps of earth during the day it is 
necessary either to hunt them after sundown with a light or to adopt preventive measures. In 
capturing them a stick with a darning needle in the end is an effective weapon, from which 
they may be dropped into a can partly filled with kerosene. They may be driven from the ground 
about the plant by using a dilute solution of anunonium carbonate (0.75 per cent.) to wet the 
earth over a small area, and then captured, and it is probable that lime sulphur solution would 
act in the same way. They are very fond of bran, so handfuls of this may be used as traps to 
collect from, or a poisoned bran bait might prove effective where it could be used safely. Should 
>lugs ever become numerous enough to threaten the foliage, spraying with arsenate of lead 
would be desirable. A few lettuce plants among the Dahlias make attractive food for the slugs 
<ind may prevent injury to the plants. Lime or dry ashes or napthalene scattered in a small circle 
about the plant will keep slugs away, but the first two lose much of their effectiveness when wet. 

The tarnished plant bug becomes a serious pest during dry, hot summers, when the succu- 
lence of the buds and blossoms tempts them from other food plants. When conditions have been 
right for the increase of these small gray-brown bugs (light green in early stages) they ma_\- 
cause the blighting or deformation of almost every bud by piercing the flower stalk or the base 
of the bud itself, and may spot and ruin the petals of the buds that do open. Little can be done 
to control these pests as they are sucking insects, so not subject to poisoning and too alert and 
lively in movements to make spraying with contact insecticides practicable. The only thing to 
do is to protect every choice plant or blossom with close-mesh netting and to await the disappear- 
ance of the insect, which usually accompanies the cool September nights. The red spider and 
black and green aphids are sometimes troublesome, but can easily be controlled by spraying the 
former with cold water merely, the latter with a weak nicotine or strong soap solution. 

Borers occasionally work in the stalks, but can usually be removed without harm to the 
plant if the injury is noticed in time by splitting the stalk with a sharp knife and killing the 
borer. 

The black aster bug attacks the flowers, devouring them if allowed full sway. They attack 
the white and very light varieties first. We eliminate them very readily by using a bucket with a 
few inches of kerosene. Slip the bucket under the flower quickly and quietly and the beetles will 
drop right in. Care must be taken to walk quietly, as they drop to the ground if disturbed in 
any way. The striped and spotted cucumber beetles also attack the flowers, but not in such 
numbers as to do great damage. As they slip down in the tubular end of the petal to escape, 
just pull out petal and beetle together. 

Cut w'orms are very annoying sometimes, especially in low ground, or during a cold, wet 
spring. Manv remedies are suggested, but a careful daily watch will soon eliminate them. 
When the Dahlia is cut off. take a stick and work around the plant and you will find the worm : 
kill it and be happy in the knowledge that shoots will come up from the lower eyes. Even 
where plants are set the eyes at the bottom will come up after the plant has been cut ofif. 

Failures are bound to occur to the beginner, and oftentimes to initiated. Therefore do 
not become discouraged if you do not at first grow flowers as large and fine as you see them 
exhibited : but keep plugging away, with the knowledge that eventually you will grow them as 



30 



THE DAHLIA. 



large and fine as it is possible for them to grow. It is here that the Dahlia is the flower of the 
people. If you want giant flowers work si.x (6) inches of manure in the soil, thoroughly- 
incorporating it into the soil to a depth of two (2) feet, (iive thorough cultivation as described 
before and disbud as described in the following chapter. 

I wish to particularly call attention to two comparative inconsistencies. Remember, 
everything depends on conditions of weather, soil, cultivation, etc. If you just want Dahlias, and 
propose just to take ordinary care of them, and do no disbudding, you do not want your soil 
too rich. Under these conditions fairly light soil is best. But if you will always keep the surface 
loose, water when needed, disbud faithfully, you cannot get your soil too rich, nor does it 
much matter how light or how heavy your soil may be. 

Hardened wood is a great source of failure and discouragement. This is generall\' found 
on rich soil, where the plants have been allowed to grow rampantly, after having been planted 
earh. I receive hundreds of letters each year on this subject. Do \uu advise pruning? is the 
question usually asked. Yes! As stated elsewhere. Dahlias Ijloom on the soft or new growth 
only, therefore to secure good and abundant bloom )ou nuist keep your plants growing. Cut 
the large plants back heavily- two-thirds at least — so as to force a strong, vigorous new 

grnv>th, and then disbud. (See next 

chapter. ) 

The same remedy applies to 

dwarf, bushv growth equally: keep 

them growing. 

Some complain that Dahlias 

will only bloom every other year. 

That is, plants that do exceptionally 

well this year will not bloom well 

next year. 

We do not have this trouble, 

and if plants are grown and dis- 
Ided, given a top dressing when 

slinwing signs of exhaustion, tlie 

roots will not become exhausted and 

will give equally good results year 

after year. 

Bottom leaves. I am often 
asked, shall I remove the bottom 
leaves? This depends on conditions. 
We ]:)refer the lower or bottom 
K'a\-es on, as they protect the roots 
from the hot sun. Keep your plants 
growing vigorously and the bottom 
eaves will remain green and lux- 
uriant. If, however, owing to dry 
weather or some other mishap, the 
lower leaves become dry or damaged 
that they aflfect the appearance of the 
plant, remove them ; but remember, 

if vou can keep those bottom leaves 
PHOTOGRAPH OF PL.-VNT OF D.^HLI.^ ^^^,^ .,„,! ,^^^^,^,^^. ^.^^, ^^,.^ ^^^^ 

JOHN WANAMAKER SHOWING ' • " 

NATURAL GROWTH assured of healthy roots. 




THE DAHLIA. 



31 



CHAPTER VI 



DISIilDDIXf; 

THIS is the most important factor in raising Dahlias, and 1 have had photograjjhs taken 
to ilkistrate the subject so as to make the subject as plain as possible. I have described the 
single stem branching system by the pinching out process; and have advised against hav- 
ing the soil too rich, and apply top dressings after the plants commence to bloom. The main 
object is to keep the plants from getting too large, calling attention to the fact that is more a 
case of moisture than fertility. I will now state by thorough disbudding you can hardly get 
the soil too rich. Dahlias bloom on the young shoots. When the plants get very large the 
moisture is evaporated through the leaves so rapidly on hot dry days that the wood hardens, 
the buds blast or open one sided or imperfect flowers. 

On page 30 is a voung plant showing natural growth of the Dahlia "John Wanarnaker." 
The second photo on page 31 shows 
the same plant with the terminal bud, 
but the first two pairs of lateral 
shoots or branches removed. Just 
examine these two photos carefully 
and you will see what a simple oper- 
ation. Simply take the main stalk 
at the base of the leaves with the 
thumb and first finger of one hand, 
the shoots in the thumb and finger 
of the other hand and snap or break 
them out one at a time. This is all 
that is necessary at that time. You 
can see the lower branches, but they 
are not ready yet. \Mien these 
branches develop buds, repeat the 
operation, treating each branch as 
you did the main stem. By this 
time you will be more interested as 
the terminal bud of the main stem 
will by this time be developing into 
just the kind of flower you have al- 
ways wished for. 

The third cut on page 32 shows 
you the plant when four of the 
branches after having been dislnid- 
ded in the same way have devel- 
oped their terminal l:iuds into superb 
exhibition quality blooms, and a 
careful inspection will show several 
other branches, several of which 
have also been disbudded in the 
same wav. Xo. 4, page 33. shows 
you the flower— the ideal flower that SAME PLANT OF JOHN WANA>L\KLR WITH TWO 
ca„ U ,r„„.„ b,. .„. one, b, ,„„„„- -"- ^ -°°- ^^''S_SSiI'ZS^,ir 
ing these snuple mstructions, the en- „ „. . 

. Do not Pinch Out or Cut Back Plant until you can get a nice 

t:re season. stemmed beauty for your trouble (Pleasure) 




THE DAHLIA. 



This disbudding will be the 
more interesting, as it carries with it 
the knowledge that the finest flowers 
are assured. We know how many 
dislike to remove the buds and 
young shoots, but you must remem- 
ber you cannot get those large flow- 
ers otherwise. Again this insures a 
continuous supply until frost. If 
you think this too much trouble, 
consider that all carnations, chrys^ 
anthemums, etc., are disbudded with 
greater attendance of time and labor. 
Yes you can get fine, large 
flowers without disbudding under 
favorable circumstances and condi- 
tions, but they will grow smaller, as 
the quantity increases luitil they are 
very small, or under hot dry weather 
}ou will get finally a few one-sided 
flowers and immense bushes. This 
disbudding is so simple if started at 
the beginning and the results so 
greatly beyond the proportion of 
time involved that it will become 
universal. 

Hoiv about a succession of 
fio-c^'crsF is the question asked in- 
variably by the novice. Look at the 
illustration of a blooming branch of 
Dorothy Peacock, on page 34. This 
shows the natural growth, and con- 
sider how many buds and bloom- 
would soon be on a plant if allowed 
to grow and bloom naturally. If 
the first two pairs of shoots had 
been removed as instructed and 
shown in illustrations on pages 30 
and 31. the third pair at the bottom 
would have developed, instead of remaining practically dormant. You would have the large long 
stem bloom with two more coming on. This is no theory, but a thoroughly practical method car- 
ried out successfully for years in growing on a large scale the finest commercial flowers, not to 
speak of the hundreds of exhibition collections. 

Of course with a shorter jointed grower, there are more eyes or young shoots to remove 
You have no idea how disbudding will help you to success. Imagine growing chrysanthemum- 
or carnations without disbudding ! 

Any one can grow Dahlias of exhibition quality if they will digest these remarks, study 
plant requirements and then act accordingly. Disbudding does away with those immense plants 
that evaporate the moisture from the soil so rapidly that during hot dry weather the buds blast 
in spite of all the water you give them. 




THIS IS THE JOHX \V.\X.\MAKER PLANT AFTER 
THE FIRST DISBUDDED FLOWER HAD BEEN 
CUT AND THE NEXT TWO PAIRS OF SHOOTS 
OR BRANCHES HAD COME INTO FLOWER 
AND THE OTHER BRANCHES DIS- 
BUDDED. THE PHOTOS SPEAK 
FOR THEMSELVES 



TPIE DAHLIA. 



33 




PHOTOGRAPH OF A BLOOM OF JOHN WANAMAKER DAHLIA 

This flower was 7J^ inches in diameter and was the original or first flower on the main shoot disbudded and 

grown as described in these chapters. Note: It was the flowers grown two months later on 

disbudded branches that were awarded First Prize as best pink dahlia, any class, 

by the .'\merican Dahlia Society, of the New York Exhibition 



34 



THE DAHLIA. 



Plants should be encouraged to make short stocky yruwth until they come into bud. Then 
disbud leaving the terminal bud and eyes at the base of the shoot for a further supply of blooms. 
There are many conflictions in Dahlia growing and to the amateur or exhibitor, where dis- 
budding is followed you can trench your soil to two or three feet in depth and you cannot get 
the soil too rich ; yet, commercially, moderation is essential. 

\Mien the flowers commence to grow smaller is the logical and proper time to fertilize. 
.Apply any good fertilizer broad-cast or any kind of manure available; but it is better to give 
two moderate applications than too much at one time. Many believe you cannot get soil too 
rich, but this is a fallacy in open air cultivation at least. If a long wet spell follows too much 
fertilizer, especially if rich in ammonia, the flowers will be large, but so soft as to be practically 
worthless for use. We have seen immense flowers that were so soft they wilted and never looked 
right after being cut. 

These flowers were worthless commercially but would have been the acme of perfection 
to the amateur. 

Under this heading I will call attention to plants which have become hard and woody, as 
frequently happens when planted early, especially if the plants are large. 

Do not hesitate to cut them back to encourage new growth, because, as stated previously, 

the Dahlia blooms on the soft growth only, and if for any reason the growth has been checked 

or the buds blasted, cut them back. .\s late as August 1st you can cut your plants down to the 

ground if \he\ are not growing and blooming and you will by the latter part of September get 

the finest results. 

Plants afl'ected with thrips or red spider should be cut 
down to the ground, handling them carefully so as to destroy 
all the insects with the tops if possible, and give the plants a 
chance to send up new shoots from the roots. These plants 
shoulil have good culture and fertilizer if the soil is not rich. 

Care nuist always be taken in disbudding that the terminal 
l)ud has not been injured. Insects, dry or hot weather are the 
])rincipal causes. If the terminal bud is not perfect and healthy 
leave one of the other buds. Where there is doubt it is well to 
leave the first pair as well as the terminal, to insure a flower, 
and leaving the best after they have developed sufficiently to 
be sure of them. 

Dififerent varieties having different habits of growth, I have 
tried to make disbudding plain by using a specified variety with 
illustrations. I used John Wanamaker because it responds most 
marvelously, and does not show its real size and beauty unless 
disbudded, as it is such an early and profuse bloomer. Other 
varieties can lie handled according to their habit of growth, 
using the same principle. 

Do not forget that no matter how far down you disbud 
the eyes will break out and give shoots that in turn can be dis- 
budded, the process continuing until frost, and the roots will then 
be excellent for the following" year. 

Po!!i(^oiis and Singles. Yes. even pompons and singles 
should be disbudded, no matter for what purpose. Even a bed of 
pomjions will show up much better, the flowers will be brighter 
and will last much longer when disbudded. This is because the 
young growth does not hide the flowers and use the strength 

^^„__,,.. „„ , _^ „_ from them. Also the shoots breaking lower will come on and 

DOROTMi PE.\COCK ° 

Showing natur.nl habit of growth replace them as they fade. 




THE DAHLIA. 



35 




JOHN WANAMAKER PLANT AND ROOTS 

Just as dug from field after frost, showing its wonderful brandling habit of growth; note carefully the plant 

was not pinched out and yet it branched out right from the ground 



36 



THE DAHLIA. 




NEW P^ONY DAHLIA. F. R. AUSTIN 



THE DAHLIA. 37 



CHAPTER VII 

XF.W VARIETIES. 

THE popularity of a plant is always increased by the production of new varieties. Whether 
this is, altogether, because we tire of existing kinds, or because the production of distinct 
forms and types disproves the old adage of there being "nothing new under the sun." our 
readers must decide for themselves. The scientist would demonstrate that nothing new had 
been created — that it was only new combinations of what existed before ; but in this very demon- 
stration, however, he would admit that which he was trying to disprove ; it is these new and 
marvelously beautiful combinations that excite the admiration of the flower-loving world. No 
other flower has been so improved by the production of new varieties as the Dahlia, and, strange 
to say, without impairing its vigor or growth. 

Although many new varieties are produced by sports from existing kinds, the most im- 
portant method, and only one by which real progress is made, is by planting selected seeds. 
To secure the best results, seed should be saved from dwarf, very double varieties only, as they 
not only bloom earlier but give a greater percentage of good flowers. Crossing varieties also 
offers great possibilities in the production of superior sorts, and many specialists secure the 
exact kinds they wish by the judicious selection of parent plants. 

Artificial crossing of varieties is very easily accomplished if the proper care is taken, 
although growers have, in the past, been content to depend chiefly on bees and other inserts 
for all crossing, and simply gathered seed from the finest flowers. All that is necessary is to 
select the varieties it is desired to cross, and apply the pollen of one to the pistil of the other 
with a fine camel's-hair brush. It will take several operations on each flower-head, as each 
head is composed of numerous individual flowers which open slowly, commencing at the base 
of the rays or petals. Care must be taken to remove the pollen from each flower of the head, 
before it can impregnate the pistil with its own ])ollen, also to cover the flowers operated on 
with wire screens, to keep off bees and other insects. 

The seed can be sown thinly in the greenhouse, in a box in the house, or in a mild hot-bed 
early in April, and transplanted into the open ground as soon as danger of frost is over. They 
require the same treatment as other Dahlias, except that they must be watered until thoroughly 
established, and will bloom freely the first season. 

Of course where only a few seedlings are grown they can be potted as we do our rare 
seedlings; but, in a case of two hundred and fifty thousand, the expense would be prohibitive 
and we transplant direct from seed row. 

Growing new varieties from seed is most fascinating to amateurs, owing to the uncertainty 
and expectancy; for besides the possibility of raising a finer variety than was ever before pro- 
duced, they have the pleasure of watching each plant as it first unfolds its hidden secret. 

Sports have the same form and other characteristics of the variety from which they spring, 
and are simply a reproduction of the old variety in a different color or colors. In some instances 
they have simply a change in the ground color, as it seen in the "Fawcett" sports, while in 
others there is a complete change of colors. They are seldom an improvement on the old 
variety, and are most frequent among the Fancy sections. Some varieties sport permanently, 
while others sport back and forth and cannot be depended on unless selected very carefully. 
An example of the latter class can be found in the Fancy Dahlia "Dandy," which is a red 
pink, striped and heavily penciled, black, and is so apt to sport that, unless care is exercised, 
nine-tenths of the flowers will be solid black. There is also a pink sport of this variety, but 



38 



THE DAHLIA. 




NEW DECORATIVE DAHLIA, DR. TYRRELL 



THE DAHLIA. 



39 



if care is taken to throw out all but the striped type for a few years, but Httle tr(juble will 
be experienced in keeping- it true. 

This pink sported pure white and while it was hard to keep the penciled form the Pink 
Dandy and White Dandy have never reverted. 

Some of the new varieties recently introduced are marvels of entrancino- biveliness, being 
of largest size, most beautiful form, and of exquisite finish. While there has not been a blue 
variety produced as yet, many believe it is onl\- a question of a little time, for we already 
have several purples containing blue shades ; all that is needed is to develop those shades, and 
we have the greatest floral novelty of the century. 

A great deal has been said regarding the value of new varieties of flnwers, both pro and 
con; but it is now generally conceded "that new varieties of merit are not only beneficial to 
floriculture, but are absolutely necessary to keep up a popular interest, in any class of plants. 
The past history of the Dahlia is sufiicient proof of this; but, while new varieties are essential, 
improvement is of still greater importan;e. and no variety should be introduced unless it has 
more good points than any other variety of a similar color and type. 

\Mth the introduction of the Newer Cactus, Decorative, Paeony, Collarette. Anemone. 
Century, etc., we have now reached the stage when the Dahlia is the most popular of all garden 
flowers. While a few >ears ago we would not have dreamed of to-day's masterpieces, we now 
know that the end is not yet. We will continue to develop and improve existing types and 
perfect and deve'op each new break as it appears. 




STuKM KIXG 



40 



THE DAHLIA. 



' V 




GIANT CENTURY DAHLIA, MRS. WENDEL REBER 



THE DAHLIA. 



41 




With packing 



DAHLIA WAREHOUSE 
and store rooms and lofts, with staff of employees 



CHAPTER VIII 

COMMERCIAL DAHLIA GROWING. 

FEW people realize the magnitude of commercial Dahlia growing to-day. The illustrations 
will give a good idea of the extent of growing Dahlias for commercial cut flowers, and 
these were all taken en only one of the many Dahlia "Farms and Gardens," while the fol- 
lowing was written by the editor of the Florists' Exchange October 24, 1914: 

"The plants or roots are set out at various periods from April until August, partly owing 
to the exigencies of the bvisiness and partly in order to secure a succession of bloom. The 
rows are set at 4^ feet apart, and the furrow for the planting is made with a Darnell marker, 
6 inches deep, and the plants are set at 2i/2 feet to 3 feet apart in the row. according to the 
variety. The roots are covered in, and a roller passed over them, after which a light scratch 
harrow follows so as to leave a broken surface soil. During the growing season the weeding 
machine is kept constantly at work ; even after rainy weather the hoe is kept active, not only 
to suppress weeds but to scarify the surface, and conserve the moisture; moreover scarifying 
cuts the upper roots of the Dahlia plants, causing them to throw their roots down, and while 
it retards growth, it tends toward a firmer type of stem, which is what is wanted. It is an 
axiom here never to produce sappy growth. The weeder is shaped like a snow plow, with 
two rows of curved prongs, and hoes about 7 feet width of ground, and goes over the Dahlia 
plants with impunity, as it is found that the slight bruising or knocking does them no harm 
in their earlier stages of growth. Of course, it requires a careful man to handle such a weeder. 

"So soon as the plants begin to throw out stem growths, these are pulled away, leaving but 
two main ones; in Midsummer these are topped to about one foot, and the resulting branches 
from these are limited to ten, more or less, according to the variety, and if large blooms are 
wanted, each shoot is disbudded to one flower; if not, of course this work is not undertaken. 
The pinching is done by girls. 

"About the month of August, when it is desired to encourage the growth for flowering a 
few weeks later, a dusting along the rows is given of steamed bonemeal, and also, we believe, 
of sulphate of potash, and where necessary, some nitrate of soda. This, of course, also depends 
on the season and the condition of the plants ; it may not be necessary in all cases. A good 
deal of horse manure is also plowed into the soil in the Winter. No irrigation is practised. 



42 



THE DAHLIA. 




FIELD OF DAHLIAS 



■'The hlooms are shipped to Philadelphia, New Vork and Buffalo, mostly at the rate of 
50.000 a day in the height of the season, which is around October 1, and 43 people are then 
employed ; at the present time as many as 34 find regular work. 

"The store rooms, shipping room, and loft are comprised in a large, well built concrete 




FIELD OF DAHLIAS 



THE DAHLIA. 



43 




BU- 












CORXER OF CL T 



)\\i-;r room 



Iniilding. a view of which is shown. An ann^^.x for cut flowers has been added on the north 
side, built of concrete blocks, and has a double ceiling;, tiled, and an earthen floor, also plenty 
of bench room: as many as 100,000 blooms can be housed ready for sale or shipment. The 
flowers are brought in from the fields in a frame attached to the back of an auto, this con- 
taining- 20 buckets of 100 blooms each. 

"During the whole of the flowering season large numbers of visitors m automobiles are 
constantly coming and going, and many purchases are made by them. When shipping is at 
its busiest, the staff works in two shifts, so that a part is always engaged cutting and sending 
off or preparing to, even during the night. 

"The stout cardboard boxes contain from 50 to 150 blooms each, according to the variety, 
and from three to five of these boxes are fitted into a crate or frame, and so packed, they travel 
with the utmost security. 

"In regard to varieties it woukl re<|uire much more space than can be afl^orded now, to 
name the many good kinds that were seen. John Wanamaker stands out as an ideal bright 
pink Pseonv Dahlia : this is its proper class, although many have contended that it is a double 
decorative form, which it really is earlv in the season, but assumes its true character in Octo- 




A BOX OF SHOW D.^HLIAS PACKED FOR SHIPMENT TO MARKET 



44 



THE DAHLIA. 





AFTER THE BOXES HAVE J'.EEN PACKED, 
THEY ARE CRATED, AS SHOWN HERE- 
WITH, AND ARE NOW READY 
FOR THE EXPRESS COMPANY 



l)er. Jack Rose, rich crimson-purple, a small 
decorative, is one of the freest bloomers ; in all 
respects an ideal Dahlia for the wholesale trade. 
Some roots of this were planted in April, others 
in Midsummer, and as many as 2h gc od blooms 
have been cut from a single plant. The popular 
sorts are grown in l)ig batches, five that we 
counted covering an area of 7'j acres. These 
were Jack Rose, Lyndhurst, Yellow Duke Ara- 
hcl'a and Red Hussar; a bronze sport from the 
Mtler is also a great favorite, while others are 
.Marjorie Castleton, which has lieen in bloom 
since July, and is still very pretty ; Delice, one 
of the best bright pink decoratives ; Pilot, a good 
amber flower ; J. B. Riding, fine golden-russet 
cactus: Sunshine, an excellent pompon; Effect- 
ive, a lovely creamy-rose cactus ; Bridal Robe, a 
white cactus ; Isabelle, a blush and cream colored 
show ; Success, clear bright yellow cactus ; Mrs. 
Douglas Fleming, white cactus, very free 
bloomer; Nerissa, a rosy-mauve pompon. These 
represent some of the more prominent varieties, but indeed all kinds are here included from the 
monster scarlet Souv. de Gustav Douzon to the gorgeous yellow and scarlet Preony-flowered 
Geisha. The Twentieth Century singles, and the newer collarettes are all found in abundance, 
but we must leave the discussion of \arieties according to groups for another occasion. These 
notes merely outline the extent and character of the business here conducted." 

Mr. Dick, in his description of a commercial Dahlia farm, naturally stopped with the flowers 
packed and crated for shipment. It is here, however, that the Dahlia men have shown their 
progressiveness, for, instead of cutting and shipping indiscriminately on consignment to the 
wholesale florists, as is done with other flowers, the finer varieties are cut and shipped on 
orders only. 

This is absolutely necessary for several reasons and explains the wonderful growth in the 
Dahlia cut flower industry. The Dahlia is as e-xquisitely formed and colored as orchids, bruise 
as easily and must be handled as carefully. Therefore we say, Mr. Florist, give us your order 
and we will pack it specially and as carefully as you would pack orchids ; it will reach your city 
and our representative will deliver it to you at once. No one will even see what you are getting, 
much less handle or pick over them. We guarantee they will reach you in perfect condition. 
But commercial Dahlia cut flower growing is not all sunshine. The season generally 
commences in September and lasts until frost, about six weeks, but we are liable to have two or 
three weeks of extremely hot weather in September, with an abundance of flowers and little 
demand. 

Then we have the other extreme — a failure of the Aster crop and a dry, cool August, with 
a brisk demand for Dahlias two to three weeks ahead of time. Even irrigation won't help, for it 
is so cool the flowers open most tantalizingly slow, and, worse, one or two light frosts a week. 
But it is the intermediate, when conditions run more normal, that evens up. Then we 
don't envy the amateurs, who can grow and enjoy their Dahlias any time and all the time and 
do not have to have their flowers just at the, right time in proper quantities, regardless of condi- 
tions of temperature, moisture and supply of other flowers. 



THE DAHLIA. 45 



CHAPTER IX 

DAHLIAS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 

THERE are now varieties of almost every conceivable color, form and habit; and, where 
the finer varieties are known, they are largely used and highly prized, for all floral pur- 
poses. There are many varieties that are similar in color, and from a general description 
would be called identical ; yet, owing to form and habit, they are entirely distinct, and each 
is pre-eminently adapted to some special purpose. It is; therefore, of the greatest importance 
that the various characteristics of each variety should be given in the descriptions, that the 
monotony and general similarity of the descriptive list can be avoided, and thus assist the buyer 
in selecting varieties for any special purpose. In the past. Dahlias were grown chiefly as 
garden plants, where color was of importance, and little attention was given to any particular 
shade or tint of that color; but with the knowledge of the adaptability of the plant to condi- 
tions, and its value for so many special purposes, varieties to supply these needs were pro- 
duced. Therefore, the time for buying and growing Dahlias under color is past, and both 
the amateur and the grower will select certain named varieties for a certain purpose. 

There was a time when Dahlias for commercial cut flower purposes must have stiff stems, 
but now with the best florists this makes no difference, in fact, several have told me they prefer 
a pliable neck, as they wire every flower they use, and for decorations they sometimes cannot 
get the effect they want from the rigid stem varieties. Now, then, we all prefer a Dahlia with 
a long stiff stem — many won't grow any other kind ; but think of the relief, not to speak of 
the increased variety and artistic and decorative effects. 

Dahlias are now used for every purpose in their season, as a cut flower for every conceiv- 
able purpose they are used with most effective results. In fact, there is no use a flower can be 
put to — bold, subdued, chaste, artistic or striking — that the proper Dahlias cannot be selected and 
used more effectively than any other flower available. 

The wonderful variation in form alone from the various singles, duplex, paeony, collarette, 
anemone, decorative, cactus and ball, with their distinctive types. Then their variations in foliage, 
habits, colors and blendings of colors in each of these classes and types of classes. 

A bed of Minnie Burgle will surpass any bed of cannas in general satisfaction, as it will give 
the rich glowing red efl'ect and a daily decoration for the house will not be missed. 

It may not be amiss to state that this grandest of all red Dahlias is a product of the Mare 
Island Navy Yard, San Francisco, and a credit to Uncle Sam and his gardener who produced 
it. It is not alone the large size and rich vermilion cardinal red of the flower, but the strong, 
vigorous plant, that just blooms and blooms and then blooms some more, until killed by frost. 

What variegated, yellow and red canna can compare with a bed of famous Geisha f These 
beds not only are grand from a distance, but exquisite from a close inspection and are nice to carry 
into the house or give to friends. 

You can have a bed of pompons in one or more colors. Snowclad is well named white ; Klein 
Domitea would give you a bed of copper, with a corresponding wealth of pleasure and satisfaction. 

For general garden culture I will name a few of the best in the two types that appeal most 
as to size and general loveliness : 

Cactus — Bridal Robe, Crystal, Electric, H. H. Thomas, Conquest, Fulgent, Marathon, 
I\Iauve, Queen, Kalif, Marjorie Castleton. Monarch, Nellie Riding, Regularity, Rev. T. W. 
Jamison, Richard Box, Success, Stability, Wodan. 

Decorative — Aveshia, Beloit, Bertha von Suttner, Bloemhove, Dr. Tynell, Flamingo, Grand 



THE DAHLIA. 




OXi:-llALF UuX EXHIBITION DAHLIAS PHOTOGRAPHED OX ARRI\'AL AT EXHIBITIOX 



Duke Alexis. Goldmine. Hortulanus Fiet. Kathryn De I.a Mare, John Wanamaker, Le Grand 
Manitoii, Mme. Aymond, L. Kramer Peacock, Minnie Bnrgle. Papa Charmet. Perle de Lyon, 
Queen JMary. 

Pcrony — America. Andrew Carnegie, Dr. A. Kuyper. F. R. Austin. Geisha, H. J- Lovink. 
Louise Hogg, Leo XHL Lilac, Lullingstone, Mme. \'an Loon, Monarch, Mrs. G. W. Kerr. 
Mrs. \Vm. Kerr, Mrs. G. (jordon, Peace. Peacock's ^'ellow. 

The other lists of varieties are not so long, therefore not so confusing to the beginner. 
Again these varieties are as for 1917 season. The catalogues will give other new varieties from 
year to year. I h.ave not gone into long descriptions for I have not forgotten the many times it 
has been necessary to go through a page of fine print description to get the color of a variety. 

Dahlias are often used as a cover for a barren place, where only color w^as wanted. Li 
one case two thousand Wildfire Century was used on a small hillside that persistently refused to 
grass. Li another instance six thousand single mixed was planted four feet apart each way 
to cover a hillside. The natural effect was most pleasing, although not so striking as if planted 
in blocks of colors. 

The possibilities of mass planting are not realized generally, and when it is considered that 
4x4 feet or sixteen square feet are covered by one plant ( and they do better at this distance 
than closer) it is a verv economical w;iv of co\'erin<^ hog-liacks. hillsides or any vacant piece 
of land. 

One of the mast satisfactorv locations is in the garden, directly between the lawn and 
vegetables. Flowers are now a necessity in every home and every one can have an abundance 



THE DAHLIA. 



47 




^'MM 



THE BALL AND DECORATIVE WERE PACKED IN BOTTOM AND CACTUS ON TOP 
NOTE PERFECT CONDITION 



of flowers in any particular color or shade, and form by planting a few Dahlias on the house side 
of the garden. 

You have too many trees and shrubs for Dahlias to do well. Use pots. If you have never 
used Dahlias in pots you cannot imagine what beautiful plants and blooms you can grow in 
this way. 

Or you can make a concrete box or bed, either sunken or on the surface of the ground. 
being careful to have plenty of holes for drainage ; fill up with good soil and plant your Dahlias. 
You will be surprised at the results, right under the trees. Of course, you want suitable 
varieties that are stronger for blooms than foliage. In fact, some varieties, like Electric, do 
much better in partial shade, as the sun, in very hot, dry weather, is inclined to scorch the 
outer petals of the delicately tinted varieties before they fully expand. 

Nothing is handsomer than some of those immense, beautifully formed and richly shaded 
or delicately tinted Dahlias on long, slender, gracefully drooping stems. They make a fine con- 
trast to the bold upright growing varieties, and are really more valuable as they can be wired up, 
so they can be used in any position. 

It is surprising how much longer a flower will last if it is wired. The wires are very 
cheap and the operation is very simple. Simply insert one end directly in the back of the flower 
parallel to and alongside of the stem for a few inches, then wind it around the stem. You 
will soon become expert. In making a decoration you can place each flower in just that par- 
ticular position you want it by simply bending the wire. 



48 



THE DAHLIA. 




THE DAHLIA. 49 



CHAPTER X 

DAHLIA EXHIBITIONS. 

NO FLOWER is better adapted for exhibition purposes than the DahHa, which fact is 
fully appreciated in England where Dahlia shows not only exceed the chrysanthemum 
shows in number, but in surpassing beauty and popularity. In England, France, and 
Germany, but especially in England, Dahlias are universally grown by all classes, and almost 
every town and hamlet as well as the large cities, have a Dahlia show of their own. There, 
in almost every garden, can be found the most beautiful varieties, grown especially for the local 
Dahlia exhibition, where the titled gentleman and his humblest laborer compete on equal terms 
for the same prizes. Nor does the humbler man compete in vain, for, in many cases, he wins 
the prize for which he has striven so hard. As the Dahlia requires no special conditions or 
greenhouses, it is entirely a matter of science and skill, and there is everywhere such a strong, 
yet friendly, competition, as to arouse the greatest popular interest and enthusiasm. 

How different in America. Here we have few shows during the summer and early autumn 
months ; but, early in November, there comes such a deluge of Chrysanthemum shows as to 
almost bewilder us. Our florists and horticulturists seem to think the Chrysanthemum the only 
flower worthy of an exhibition ; and, then complain because the masses do not agree with them. 
The November Chrysanthemum shov.s are losing in popularity, simply because the masses are 
not interested in a flower they cannot grow ; they admire them, but, lacking interest, do not 
care to see about the same thing from year to year. 

Somehow our leading horticulturists do not realize this, for they are now discussing this 
monotony of, and lack of interest in, the flower shows. They attribute it to the system as may 
be seen from the following quotation : "The next question is, how to get the masses to lend 
us their eyes and ears. The present system see^ns to fall short somewhere, and is pretty near a 
failure." 

The first thing is to have every local horticultural society become affiliated with the Amer- 
ican Dahlia Society and give early Autumn shows. Not for Dahlias alone but include all 
flowers and decorative plants; which, with the "Autumn foliage" give the greatest range and 
possibilities. This is particularly advisable as in case of local climatic or other unfavorable con- 
ditions, an appeal to the American Dahlia Society would result in aid from growers in more 
favorable districts. 

For Summer and early Autumn shows, especially in small cities, towns, and even country 
villages, the Dahlia offers great possibilities, as it requires no special condition and can be 
grown to perfection in every garden, with but little trouble and expense. In this respect, it 
has no equal, and can truly be called the flower for the masses, as its superb beauty can be 
as fully developed in the workingman's garden as on the more pretentious grounds of his 
more fortunate neighbors. 

Not only in halls are exhibitions to be made, but nearly all the large growers have trial 
or show beds. Many think a Dahlia exhibition should be given inside with cut flowers, but 
the grandest exhibition I ever saw was two years ago, when we had a half-million disbudded 
flowers open, to say nothing of the millions that were not disbudded over an area of one hun- 
dred and twenty acres. We had anticipated a great season, but under the current conditions 
caused by the outbreak of the great war, there was not sufficient demand and I only wish 
every reader could have seen that magnificent exhibition, which I hope we may never see again 
as it meant the loss of thousands of dollars. However it was appreciated by many thousands 
of visitors. 



50 



THE DAHLIA. 




NEW FAXCY CACTUS DAHLIA. lUPITER 



Let every Dahlia lover aid the local shows, but above all make a continuous exhibition 
on their grounds and in their homes. 

I am often told that the Dahlia can never supplant the Chr)-santliemum, and that the 
Dahlia shows would never reach the popularity of the Chrysanthemum shows. As to the first 
no one would wish it. nor could it be, as they occupy two distinct seasons, and one follows the 
other in perfect succession. The Dahlia is in bloom from June until October, while the finer 
Chrysanthemums do not commence to bloom until the last of October and November; as they 
thus occupy two distinct seasons, it is useless to compare their relative qualities. One is a popu- 
lar garden plant, the other, to lie fully developed, belongs to the greenhouse; both have their 
missions — neither can be spared. 

But in poptilarity, the Dahlia shows are destined to surpass every other floral exhibition 
m the near future, as they require no special conditions; no greenhouses, and can be grown in 
every garden, thus insuring spirited competition, without which the popularity of a show is 
sure to wane as the novelty w^ars ofT. Nor is this popularity undeserved: there is no other 



THE DAHLIA. 



51 




GREAT DECORATn'E DAHLIA. MRS. ROOSEVELT 



flower can compare with them in range of colors or varieijations, while the beautiful lustre of 
the colors is unsurpassed in nature. 

It is only at a comprehensive Dahlia exhibition, that its man\' wonderful characteristics 
can be seen. Flowers of almost every conceivable form and color, all of superb beatit\'. are 
tastefullv arranged so as to give the most pleasing' effects. Some plants only ten inches high 
are exhibited in full bloom, while near by i■^ a giant of ten, perhaps fifteen feet high. There 
are so many classes and types of Dahlias, that a person seeing a complete exhibit for the first 
time would be very apt to ask: — "But which are the Dahlias?" 

Among the new introductions are varieties that resemble the Chrysanthemum, the \\'ater 
Lily, the Cactus, and the Rose, besides improved foi'fns of all the older types ; and it is not 
unustial to see specimen blooms six to eight inches in diameter, on stems two to three feet long. 
This diversity of types and forms, precludes the possibility of that monotony so common at 
flower shows. The rapidly increasing popularity of the Dahlia will do much towards developing 
floriculture especially in the rural districts, and will undoubtedly encourage the formation of 
local societies, for the purpose of holding Summer and early Autumn flower shov.s, throughout 
the country. 



52 THE DAHLIA. 

The first annual exhibition of the reorganized American DahHa Society, held in September, 
1915, in New York City, was a revelation, not only to the immense crowds of visitors but to the 
old guard florists. The American Dahlia Society is affiliated with the Society of American 
Florists and Ornamental Horticulturists, and both Societies did their utmost to make the first 
national exhibition of the newly reorganized Society the success it deserved. 

To gi\-e an idea of this great Dahlia show I give below a reproduction of a section of the 
display that was awarded the Gold Medal. 




DAHLIA EXHIBIT 



The competition was keen, not only for the best general displays but for vases of the 
various colors on long stems, collections of each of the different classes and types and for indi- 
vidual blooms, designs and various decorations. 

Taken all in all it was a wonderful exhil)ition and set a high standard for all future 
national Dahlia shows. 

Every local community should have its Dahlia show, where the friendly competition excites 
each grower to do his or her very best to surpass. 

It is very easy to organize a local club or society, become affiliated with the American 
Dahlia Society and help along the good cause, as well as community interest and personal satis- 
faction. See chapter ''American Dahlia Society," page 35. 



THE DAHLIA. 53 



CHAPTER XI 

CONCLUDING REMARKS. 

WHILE a tlioroug-li stirring of the soil will generally give better results than watering, in 
garden cultivation, yet, when Dahlias are planted near trees, hedges, or large shrubs, 
they will require liberal watering, especially in dry weather, as the roots of the trees 
and shrubs will rob them of nature's supply of moisture. Specimen plants on the lawn will also 
need watering during dry weather, and will well repay this extra attention with their wealth 
of bloom. A very common, yet fatal, error, is to start the roots in a hot-bed and allow the 
shoots to become a foot or more in height before planting on the lawn, as a plant started this 
way will need staking, and will always have a top-heavy appearance. A perfectly symmetrical 
Dahlia bush is one of the loveliest plants for any open position on the grounds, and can be 
grown with half the attention required by almost any other flower. 

It is best to prepare a circular bed. at least two feet in diameter, and thoroughly stir the 
soil to the depth of eighteen inches to two feet. Plant large roots six to eight inches deep, and, 
under the single stem branching system (see figure 4, page 23), the plant can be grown in any 
desired form, by securing the branches to small supports. 

It is not generally known that Dahlias make beautiful pot plants, and that, by feeding 
them properly with manure water they fully equal the Chrysanthemum as an exhibition plant. 
In growing plants in pots for exhibition, give them plenty of air and sunshine, though as cool a 
position as possible, and never allow them to suffer from lack of moisture; but, during very hot 
weather, partially protect them from the intense mid-day sun, which would injure the delicate 
petals, and in some cases cause the flowers to fade. 

As the Dahlia is so free from insects and disease, it was thought unnecessary to give the 
subject a separate chapter. Mildew is the only disease worth mentioning, and is caused by cli- 
matic conditions and unfavorable positions. Give your plants an open situation, and keep them 
in a growing condition during dry weather by frequent stirring of the surface soil, or by a 
thorough watering once each week during the drouth, and mildew will be unknown. If your 
plants are badly afifected they will never bloom, so cut them down to the ground, when they 
will send up healthy shoots, and with proper attention, bloom until frost. 

There are but few insects affecting Dahlias in America, and these are easily disposed of 
by hand picking. The brown cut worm will sometimes cut of¥ small shoots ; as they will shoot 
up again, destroy the worm, and but little damage is done. The black aster bug sometimes 
attack the flowers but are easily picked oflf, as are also the spotted cucumber beetle — a small 
yellowish green, black spotted beetle about one-fourth to three-eighths of an inch long, that 
feeds on the shoots and flowers. As these insects are but few and rcattering, and as mildew 
is seldom seen, the Dahlia can, practically, be called free from insects and diseases. 

In reference to the amateur planting the same roots from year to year, it is well to sound 
a note of warning. Where Dahlias are planted early in rich soil and fed from time to time, 
and the plants kept blooming the entire season, in other words, forced, the roots are thoroughly 
exhausted and will not give the best results the following year. This applies to Dahlias as well 
as to Dutch bulbs or anything e|se, especially because the plants are kept blooming under stim- 
ulants, which prevents them from properly ripening and depositing plant food in the tubers, as 
would be the case under ordinary culture. This will account for the fact that Dahlias do not 
do so well in many cases the second year as the first. 



54 THE DAHLIA. 



CHAPTER XII 

THE AMERICAN DAHLIA SOCIETY. 

Tins Societ\-. which already lias members in several States, even as far west as Colcra>!o, 
was organized at Hotel Hanover, I'hiladelphia, on March 20, 1895. Unlike most socie- 
ties, it was organized at the earnest solicitation of several amateur admirers of the "grand 
old flower," who saw the need uf such an organization to thoroughly introduce the new t,vpes 
and forms. 

The Dahlia had underwent a complete transformation, and these admirers saw that it was 
necessary to show the marvelous results of more than a century's constant improvement. But 
there were other reasons for forming the society. The flower has always been popular with 
amateurs and gardeners, even if neglected by professional horticulturists, and has been largely 
grown, especially in the rural districts: but, owing to multiplicity of names and inferiority of 
varieties, the demand was becoming less each year, and the admirers of the flower, having 
been deceived so manv times by beautiful pictures and glowing descriptions, were willing to 
buy only where thev could see the varieties in bloom. As soon as the specialists realized this 
fact, they at once joined hands with the amateurs, and the formation of the American Dahlia 
Society was the gratifying result. 

It is the intention of the society to carefully classify all the existing varieties, and make 
a meritorious list of all scoring a given number of pi>int-~. This will greatly increase the 
popularity of the plant by restoring perfect confidence in the \arieties offered for sale. 

The society was organized solely in the interest of floriculture in general, and not to make 
money, as may be seen from the fact that the yearly dues are but one dollar. This subject 
was carefully considered, and it was decided to make the society a popular one. 

It is also the desire of the National Society, to assist the formation of Local Societies 
in every floral community, for the purpose of holding local e.xhibitions during the Summer and 
Autumn months. True, there are exhibitions in all the large cities during November, but the 
majority of gardeners and amateurs are unable to compete, as they have no greenhouses or 
other facilities for growing Roses, Chrysanthemums, Carnations, and other flowers during- that 
season of the year. November is therefore too late for popular shows, and it is only in large 
towns and cities that they can be held with even partial success. 

In speaking of this subject an amateur said : "Of course early shows would not be pop- 
idar with the florists ; but as the florists have exhibitions in November, why should not the 
people have exhibitions during the Summer and early Autumn, when the garden can compare 
favorably with the best of greenhouse establishments?" This is all true, except their not being 
popular wdth florists. Whatever would increase popular interest in floriculture would always be 
the most pleasing to florists, and they would be only too willing to exhibit and render every as- 
sistance possible to the holding of early shows ; this is most evident from the fact that they could 
exhibit their finest plants without danger of chilling, injury from gas, or other dangers, and at a 
time when popular interest and demand would be greatest. If these early shows were held 
throughout the country they would increase the interest in floriculture and, perhaps, the Chrys- 
anthemum exhibitions w'ould be more liberally patronized than during the past few years. 

The organizers of the "American Dahlia Society" were aware of the lack of popular in- 
terest in the late shows, and believed it was, partly, because the amateur could not grow and 
exhibit flowers at that season, and partly because the exhibits were so stifif, formal and monot- 
onous. Therefore they do not advocate an exhibition of Dahlias only ; but, as the family is 



THE DAHLIA. 55 

so large and the range of colors, forms and habits so extensive, Dahlias are urged as a nucleus 
around which can be gathered ail the other gems of the garden, conservatory and greenhouse. 
In exhibitions of this kind there is always something new at every step, and no two shows are 
alike ; this with the interest displayed by the amateur and gardener, who can compete for every 
prize on equal terms with the large grower, imparts the greatest popular interest, appreciation 
and enthusiasm. 

One of the chief attractions at these early shows, is the lack of that monotony so common 
at floral exhibitions held at a later date; vases, hanging baskets, festoons of wild flowers and 
vines, intermingle with the various exhibits in an ever-changing, yet pleasing, manner; while, 
here and there, groups of large decorative plants break the outline, and the visitors behold a 
charmingly distinct view at every turn. 

The new society realized the necessity of holding these early and popular shows, and next 
September (1896) propose to give such a comprehensive show as was never seen before. Skilled 
decorators will have charge of the exhibition hall, and everything will be gracefully and artis- 
tically arranged to give the most pleasing effect. Many new departures will be made in the 
manner of exhibiting, while the prize list will be so arranged as to give amateurs an equal 
chance with florists and growers, also with the view of giving a beautiful, novel, and entirely 
distinct exhibition. 

The society is national in its scope, and is receiving the earnest support of both amateurs 
and professionals. The executive committee represents three States — Pennsylvania, New York 
and New Jersey — while the membership extends as far east as Massachusetts, as far west as 
Colorado, and south as far as Texas. The society is also a popular one, and not devoted to 
any one class, but to the interest of every class ; and the only qualification needed is an interest 
in floriculture; every amateur, gardener, seedsman, nurseryman and florist are cordially in- 
vited to membership. 

Every floral community should be represented in the society, as one of its chief objects 
is to assist and further, in every way possible, the holding of floral exhibitions throughout the 
country. That every one interested in flowers might become members, the annual member- 
ship fee was placed at one dollar, which can be sent to the secretary, who will, also, cheerfully 
give any further information relating to the society or its exhibitions. 

A society organized on such broad principles as the American Dahlia Society is worthy 
of the liberal support of every admirer of beautiful flowers. It has risen above any one flower 
by advocating an exhibition of all, and only adopted its name because the Dahlia, being the 
only flower qualified in every way to fill the space between Roses and Chrysanthemums, is the 
best as a nucleus for popular Summer and Autumn shows, where millionaire, workingman and 
florist can compete for the same prizes, with equal chances of success ; where greenhouses are 
unnecessary, and victory follows in the footsteps of the skillful. 

The writer regrets that since writing the first edition of this treatise The American Dahlia 
Society has undergone many vicissitudes. The first few years, under its able management, it 
was very successful and several exhibitions were held and the cause of the Dahlia greatly bene- 
fited, but owing to a lack of unity of purpose and a failure to get the various growers and 
dealers to work in harmony with the original ideas of making the society strictly a Dahlia 
Society in the interests of the Dahlia, and especially tlie amateur growers, it has been allowed 
to sleep peacefully and nothing has been done the past few years. The work done by the so- 
ciety is already bearing good fruit in the smaller towns as well as in the large cities. It is 
certainly to be hoped that as the general interest in Dahlias increases that this society may be 
reorganized on its original lines and the introduction of the many marvelous new varieties and 
new types of Dahlias may make Dahlia exhibitions even more interesting and instructive than 
ever. The Dahlia is now becoming a factor in the cut-flower market and thousands are sold 
daily in each of the large cities, in many cases for prices higher than Roses. Each year the 
exhibitions are improving and the demand is becoming so persistent for Dahlia shows that even 
Horticultural Societies and Florists' Clubs are having regular Dahlia shows each year. 



56 THE DAHLIA. 

\Miile the writer regrets very much the present abandonment of the society, yet he feels 
it is much better so. than to have it diverted from the original broad plan on which it was 
organized and on which it will, undoubtedly, in the near future, be reorganized and success- 
fully carried to a glorious future. 

It is most gratifying to the writer to announce in this fifth edition of the book "The 
Dahlia," the reorganization of the American Dahlia Society in May, 1915, along the broad lines 
on which it w-as first organized with the result that we now have about three hundred and 
twenty-five members in good standing and ga\ e in September, 1915, one of the finest Dahlia 
exhibitions ever given. The society is on a good financial basis having a comfortable surplus 
after paying all expenses. 

A number of local horticultural societies have become affiliated with tlie American Dahlia 
Society. We mention here a list of officers and committeemen for 1916: 

List of Officers 1915-16. 

President. 

Richard \'incent, Jr \\'hite Alarsh, Md. 

Secretary. 
J. Harrison Dick 1426 Seventy-third St., Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Treasurer. 
F. R. Austin Tuckerton, N. J. 

J'ice-President. 

Geo. L. Stillman ^^'esterly, R. I. 

Representing the North. 

Leonard Barron Garden City, L. I. 

Representing the East. 

J. B. Norton College Park, Aid. 

Representing the South. 

W. ^V. Wilmore Denver, Colo. 

Representing the West. 

E.veeiifiz'e Comiii'itlee. 

Geo. W. Kerr Philadelphia, Pa. 

I. S. Hendrickson Flowerfield, L. I., N. Y. 

J. Duthie Oyster Bay, N. Y. 

P. W. Popp Mamaroneck, N. Y. 

Nomenclature Committee 

Prof. F. H. Hall Geneva, N. Y. 

L. K. Peacock Berlin, N. J. 

Geo. W. Fraser Storris, Conn. 

E. S. Brown East Moriches, L. I., N. Y. 

James Kirby Huntington, N. Y. 

Every Dahlia lover should become a member of the society which was organized and is 
being conducted iri the interests of the Dahlia and for the benefit of the amateur grower. The 
initiation fee is one dollar, active membership dues two dollars each, associate membership 
dues one dollar each. Bulletins are issued from time to time and it is proposed to issue a 
year book each year. The American Dahlia Society is affiliated with the Society of American 



THE DAHLIA. 



57 



Florist^ and Ornamental Horticulturists and arrangements have been made vvhereliy local socie- 
ties may become affiliated with the American Dahlia Society for the sum of ten dollars per 
year. At the present rate of growth it promises to eclipse all other floral societies in point 
of numbers and enthusiasm. Any information may be secured by writing to the Secretary, 
Mr. J. Harrison Dick, 1426 Seventy-third St., Brooklyn, N. Y., or to any of the other officers or 
members of committees. 

In connection with the American Dahlia Society we call attention to the official trial 
grounds at Geneva E.xperimental station conducted by Prof. F. H. Hall. Prof. Hall will have 
growing this year, about three thousand varieties where everyone interested in Dahlias may go 
and see them. 

Prof. Hall also issues a Dahlia Bulletin which may be procured by writing to him request- 
ing it to be sent, enclosing stamps for return postage, as long as the present edition lasts. 




TYPE OF CENTURY DAHLIA 



58 THE DAHLIA. 



CHAPTER XIII 

SELECT LIST OF \'ARIETIES. 

ON THE following pages will he found the very cream of all the new standard varieties, 
carefully selected from the thousands of varieties now in cultivation. The varieties 
named in each class represent a complete range of colors and forms, and each is the 
best of its color and t\pe. Each collection is correctly classified. Descriptions are approxi- 
mately correct, although it will not be amiss to state here that the Dahlia varies in different 
locations and under different conditions, especially climatic conditions. For instance, Sunning- 
dale is a pure white in England, while in America it is a delicate pink. There is also a differ- 
ence in the size, many of the varieties blooming much larger early in the season and gradually 
opening smaller and lighter as the season advances, especially during the long, cool nights 
and short days of September and October. 

This list is thoroughly revised right down to date, and in many cases where old and favorite 
varieties have been omitted, it is only because newer and better varieties have taken their places. 
Our object in presenting this list is not to give a collection of all the good Dahlias, but a 
select list of the very best only. 



CACTUS DAHLIAS 



A. D. Stoop — Rich crimson with darker center ; an excellent garden variety with good stems. 

Aegir — Bright vermilion crimson. Unique distinct form. 

America — Large, blush-pink, striped penciled and spotted carmine. Long slender petals. 

A. Morgan — Deep, rich crimson; very fine. 

Amos Perry — Brightest vermiHon-scarlet. 

Arthur Picquart — A very pleasing shade of soft salmon pink. 

Aschenbrodel — Orange pink, with delicate yellow tips. Very distinct and effective. 

Auburn Beauty — An exquisitely formed autumn shade variety; yellow, shaded lironze red. 

Aurora — Reddish apricot, suffused pink tipped white. 

Bianca — Very large and fine ; color deep rose. 

Blenda — Rosy crimson with cream base, finely formed flower with long, narrow incurved petals. 

Bosnia — A most unique form, with cleft or stag-horn petals; rich orange. 

Bridal Bobe — One of the very best white cactus, with large full flowers with great substance and keeping 

qualities. 
Srigadier — Bright crimson ; large full flowers. 
Brittania — Soft salmon, suffused pink. 

Butterfly — Well named; large, well-formed flowers; deep crimson, tipped white. 
Candeur — Large creamy white with long stems. 
Celia — Rich pink; a fine free bloomer. 
Charm — Yellow, shaded darker; tipped white. 
Chas. Clayton — Dazzling red ; very free. 

C. H. Curtis — Rich scarlet crimson, very large ; very large incurved petals. 
Citizen — Rich dark red. 
Clara — Soft mauve, tipped yellow. 

Clara J. Stredwick — Salmon, shaded darker ; very fine. 

Claudius — One of the very best; bright, bold crimson, of largest size, with long narrow petals. 
Cockatoo — Clear yellow, tinted fawn, tipped white. The flowers are very large, of beautiful form. 
Colado — A very fine garden variety, free and continuous bloomer; color bright carmine cerise. 
Comedy — ^Yellow striped and penciled red. The flowers are of good size and fine form. 
Comet — Very large, silvery lake, penciled and spotted crimson. 
Conquest — One of the very best ; dark rich crimson maroon. 

Conrad — Yellow, blending with terra-cotta; very fine petals; largest size and a very profuse bloomer. 
Countess of Lonsdale — Yellow, suffused salmon red, tinged violet. 

Country Girl — Large, deep golden yellow, tipped bright amber. Beautifully incurved petals. 
Crepuscle — Yellow shaded deep orange ; large, splendidly formed flowers. 
Crescent. — Bright coral red. shaded yellow; a fine exhibition flower. 



THE DAHLIA. 59 

Crystal — One of the very finest, clear, soft pink cactus; flowers are of enormous size with long, narrow, 

incurved petals. 
Dahliamum — Color is a rich creamy white, shading to primrose at the center and tinting to white at the 

tips. 
Delicat — Purple, richly shaded 

Dr. Kendall — .\n excellent autumn shade variety; bright yellow shaded rich orange; an improved W'm. 
Marshall. 

Duchess of Marlboro Golden orange overlaid solferino; large, long drooping stems. 

Echo — A fine formed flower of a distinctly distinct shade of rose. 

Effective .\ very distinct primrose, shaded amber. 

Electric — Rich, clear canary yellow ; each petal heavily tipped white ; delicate and chaste. 

Elsa — White, suffused and edged pink. 

Emu — Rose base, shaded crimson ; very fine form. 

Etenderd de Lyon — Rich carmine rose, shaded darker; very large and entirely distinct. 

Eureka — Distinctively beautiful, bright purple; a splendid flower with long, narrow petals. 

Evening Star — A fine "autumn shade" variety; beautiful golden center, shading to bright terra-cotta. 

Excelsior A splendid garden and exhibition variety; color rich velvety maroon. 

Exquisite — Shades of gold and amber. 

Faunus — Yellow sliading to rosy scarlet; long, narrow petals. Height. 4 feet. 

Flag- of Truce — A splendid large, pure white. Height, 4 feet. 

Flagstaff — .\ fine cut-flower variety; carmine tipped rosy mauve, yellow center; long stiff stems. 

Flame Bright orange scarlet; bright and effective. Height, 3 feet. 

Flamingo — Vermilion-crimson. 

Floradora Beautiful pure garnet; splendid form and free bloomer. 

Florid Bright scarlet; beautiful flowers, with long narrow petals, borne on long stems. 

Frances White — A large, beautifully-formed flower ; pure white, shading to sulphur white at center. 

Fulgent Brilliant crimson-scarlet; flowers large with full center; an early and free bloomer. 

Gaillard — Bright vermilion red; large with long, slender petals. 

Galathea — White suffused violet rose, shaded mauve. 

Gelber Printz — New. clear yellow cactus. 

General BuUer — Rich velvety maroon, tipped white; sometimes called the cactus "Frank Smith." 

General French Orange terra-cotta; fine for decorations. 

General J. B. Seth — Very large and early ; color rich strawberry red. 

Germiston Dark glowing crimson; flowers large with long, narrow petals; an early and free bloomer. 

Gluck Auf — Large rich orange ; dwarf habit. 

Golden Eagle Verv large; bright yellow, suffused rose and fawn; one of the best. 

Golden Gate — .\ very large hybrid-cactus of a rich, deep golden yellow suffused and shaded fawn. 
Golden Plover — Golden yellow, shaded bronze toward the tips ; large and fine, with long, narrow petals. 

Goldland Clear yellow ; an early and profuse bloomer, medium size, fine form. 

Goliath — Yellow, suffused and shaded salmon. 

Great Western — Very large, bright purple; entirely distinct. 

Gwen Tucker — An exquisite cactus of finest form, with long, incurved petals ; soft flesh pink. 

Harlequin. — Bright carmine, edged and tipped white ; distinct and striking. 

H. H. Thomas Beautiful deep rich crimson; very large; splendid incurved form. 

H. Shoesmith. — Brilliant vermilion-scarlet; splendid form; long slender quill petals. 
Humming Bird — Distinct, yellow tipped white. 
Hyacinth — Yellow, shading to mauve pink. 

Ideal A truly ideal variety; splendid form w'ith long stiff stems; color rich bronze yellow. 

lolanthe — Deep coral red, tipped gold; a large, well-formed flower with long stiff stems. 

J. B. Briant — Rich yellow, of immense size. Petals long, narrow and beautifully incurved. 

J. B. Fry — Primrose yellow, shading to delicate lilac rose at tips. 

J. B. Riding — Golden yellow, shaded darker. 

J. H. Jackson — Very large; rich velvety maroon. 

Johannesburg — Immense size; deep yellow, with bronze shading; a free bloomer. 

John Woolman — Scarlet, shaded rose; a large finely formed flower; early and free bloomer. 

Juliet — Rosy pink tinting lighter toward the center; very large, with long incurved petals. 

Jupiter — Yellow at base, passing to salmon rose at tips ; the whole striped and penciled bright crimson. 

Kalif — Very large; pure scarlet. 

Killarney.^B right orange; large fine form and free bloomer. 

Kingfisher — Color distinct, pure lilac; beautiful form; a splendid exhibition flower. 

Kriemhilde — Deep rosy pink with lighter center. 



60 



THE DAHLIA. 




CACTUS DAHLIA, MAGPIE 



THE DAHLIA. 61 

Lacemaker — Deep carmine; suffused and often tipped wliitc; very free flowering. 

Lady Fair — Primrose tinged soft pink; very distinct. 

Lady Swathling — Very large; clear yellow, shading to deep salmon pink. 

Lawine — A magnificent flower of largest size ; white suffused blush. 

Leda. --Cream, shading to deep violet rose. 

Leuchtfeuer — Fine form; bright red, shaded darker. 

Liberty — Rich, velvety maroon heavy tipped bright crimson. 

Lustre — Scarlet-vermilion, shading to crimson ; an early, free and continuous bloomer. 

Lyric — Large, rich yellow, shaded bronzy red ; early and profuse bloomer. 

Magnet — Salmon buff; fine. 

Magpie — (See page 61.) Distinct; color varies from delicate pink to rich maroon, with intermediate 

variations. 
Marathon — X'ery large; yellow, shaded rosy carmine. 

Marg. Bouehon — A charming, bright, lively pink, tinting l(.) flesh pink at center ; splendid form. 
Marjorie Castleton — Rosy pink, tinted lighter toward center and tips. 
Mary Famsworth — Pure yellow, heavily tipped pure white; distinct. 
Mary Furrier — Large, rich red ; fine form, long stems. 
Mary Service — Bright salmon, edged and overlaid lilac. 
Master Carl — Bright orange salmon; the largest cactus dahlia grown. 
Mastei-piece — Soft sea amber at base of petals passing to lilac rose at tips. 
Mauve Queen — Beautiful clear mauve. 
Mercury — Yellow striped and penciled crimson. 
Millicent — Orange carmine; very free. 
Miss Stredwiek — Very fine and large ; rose and white. 
Miss Wilmott — Orange, shading to scarlet ; large, early and free, with long, stiff stems. 

Mme. Desmarls Bright rosy scarlet, tinting lighter at tips with golden suffusion. 

Mme. Esehenauer — Yellow at base of petals, passing to sulphury white suffused and tipped rosy lake. 

Mme. Henri Cayeux — Soft clear pink with lighter center; very fine. 

Model — Very pleasing, yellow passing to rose. 

Monarcli — Bright bronzy red, yellow center; large, fine exhibition flower. 

Morning Glow — Soft golden yellow, tipped amber; very large and profuse bloomer. 

Mrs. Brandt — Very large ; yellow, shading to salmon buff ; splendid form. 

Mrs. C. G. Wyatt — A beautifully formed pure white cactus, with long incurved petals. 

Mrs. C. Page — Rich crimson. 

Mrs. D. Fleming Very large; pure wliite. with long, narrow, incurved petals and long, stiff stems. 

Mrs. De Luea — Golden yellow, tipped orange ; very fine. 

Mrs. F. C. Stoop — Fine yellow; good stem. 

Mrs. H. J. Jones — Scarlet, tipped white; bright and effective. 

Mrs. J. P. Mace Very large, of beautiful regular form. Color, soft shell pink. 

Mrs. H. Shoesmith — The best pure white cactus dahlia. 

MI'S. Seal — Deep maroon, tipped light rose. 

Nancy Mae — Dark, rich cardinal red. 

Nellie Riding — Deep crimson, each petal tipped pure white. 

Nerthus — Glowing, bronzy orange yellow, tipped carmine rose. 

New York — Very large; orange yellow, shading to rosy salmon. 

Nibelungenhort — Immense flowers, 7 to 8 inches across; rich golden apricot, suffused old rose. 

Perle Hilde — A delicate shell pink, sport of Kriemhilde. 

Phoenix — Rich cardinal red with carmine markings ; large and fme. 

Pink Pearl — Soft rosy pink; an early and profuse bloomer. 

Pius X — .\ superb snow white ; a strong grower and free bloomer. 

Prima Donna. — Large creamy white, with long slender petals. 

Primrose Queen A splendid flower with long, narrow, incurved petals ; clear primrose yellow. 

Prince of Yellows — Soft, golden yellow ; very profuse bloomer. 

Regularity Bronzy yellow at base, shading to rich red; with long, narrow, incurved petals. 

Reine Cayeaux Dark, rich red; an early and profuse bloomer. 

Reliable — Salmon yellow, shading darker; very profuse. 
Rev. D. R. Williamson — Rich velvety crimson. 
Rev. T. W. Jamison — Yellow, suffused lilac. 

Rheinkoenig A large and very early and free-blooming pure white cactus. 

Rheingau — Very large; brilliant scarlet, produced freely on long, stiff stems. 
Richard Box — A superb yellow, of large size and splendid form; clear light yellow. 



62 



THE DAHLIA. 




GREAT WHITE CACTUS DAHLIA, MRS. D, FLEMIXG 



THE DAHLIA. 



63 




SXOW WHITE CACTUS DAHLIA, SXOWDEN 



Kosy Morn — Bright carmine rose, tinting lighter toward the base of the petals. 

Satisfaction — Soft pink, with long, narrow, incurved petals. 

Sequoia — Large golden bronze; fine form, on long, stiff stems. 

Sherlock — Bright orange cinnamon; an early, free and continuous bloomer on long stems. 

Signal — Rich red. of perfect form. 

Snowden — A beautiful pure white, of largest size, borne on long, slender stems. 

Splendour — Very fine rich crimson. 

Stability — Large and fine; color clear carmine rose, distinct. 

Standard Bearer — Bright, clear scarlet; very profuse. 

Stormer — Very large, deep scarlet; long, narrow, pointed petals. 

Striped Kriemhilde — A striped sport of Kriemhilde. Color white, striped pink. 

Success — Clear yellow ; free on long stems. 

Sunset — Yellow at base, shading to bright apricot ; very full, free. 

Sweet Briar — One of the loveliest shades of clear, soft pink; very long, narrow, incurved petals. 

T. G. Baker — Very large, finely-formed flowers on long stiff stems. The best clear, bright yellow 

cactus. 
The Bride — Pure white; medium size, splendid form and an early bbiomer. 
The Earl — A fine exhibition dahlia ; rich ruby crimson. 
The Imp — Probably the darkest Dahlia grown ; color richest maroon, shaded black. 



64 



THE DAHLIA. 




CACTUS DAHLIA, SATISFACTION 



The Lion — Proljabl}- the largest of all cactus Dahlias; color yellow, shading to reddish salmon. 

The Pilot — Yellow, heavily tipped bright terra-cotta. 

Thomas Oberlin — Intense scarlet ; very fine large flowers with long incurved petals. 

Trojan — Pale yellow, outer petals suffused salmon ; very large and full ; profuse. 

Una — A beautiful soft pink with very long incurved twisted petals with stag horn tips. 

Vater Bhein — Yellow, suffused salmon rose ; flowers are very large and borne erect. 

Vedette — Scarlet, tipped white; fine. 

Wacht Am Rhein — Soft Hydrangea, pink tinting to white at center. 

Walkure — Sulphur yellow, shading to golden yellow at center; very large free bloomer. 

W. E. Dickson — Brilliant crimson. 

Wellington — Rich crimson scarlet; fine for exhibition. 

White Kriemhilde — A pure white sport of Kriemhilde; a good commercial white. 

White Swan — .\ beautiful pure white cactus. 

Wodan — C)ld gold at center, shading to salmon rose; flowers very large and beautiful. 

Wolfg'ang Von Goethe — Very large, rich apricot, shaded carmine. 

W. T. Rodgers — Crimson, shaded velvety maroon. 

Wunderkind — Light yellow passing to soft rose at tip of petals; very pleasing and effecti\e. 

Yellow King — Immense flowers; clear light yellow. 



THK DAHLIA. 




DECORATIVE DAHLIA, NYMPH^A 

DECORATIVE DAHLIAS 

A. C, Ide— Dark velvety red. 

American Beauty — Very large; bright crimson; the giant fiowers are perfectly double. 

Armentine Desblains — Soft pink, tinting cream ; fine. 

Annie Doppenberg- — Clear light yellow. 

Aug-. Nonin — Very large ; bright rich scarlet. 

Beloit — Immense size; the rich crimson fiowers are of beautiful semi-cactus form. 

Bertha von Suttner Beautiful soft mauve pink, very large; plant is dwarf. 

Black Beauty — Deep velvety maroon, shading black. 

Bloemhove Very large and free flowering; color lilac rose. 

Blue Oban — Soft lavender blue; nearest to blue in Dahlias. 

Breeze Lawn Very large, fine form; color fiery vermilion. 

Brittannia — Large, clear lilac. New. 
Bronze Beauty — Yellow, suffused bronze red. 
Carmen — A pleasing shade of orange red. New. 

Chanoine Ducrot Immense size. Vivid scarlet pointed petals. 

Charlotte — A fine bedding variety ; color rich orange. 

Claribel — Bright imperial purple. 

Clio — Dark lilac ; a very profuse bloomer. 

Constancy — Golden terra-cotta, shaded reddish brown. 



66 



THE DAHLIA. 




DECORATIVE DAHLIA. JACK ROSE 



Corrona — A miniature pure white of perfect form and 

extremely free flowering. 
Corry — Clear soft rosy lake. 
Crimson Giant — Richest glowing crimson. 
Cuban Giant — Rich velvety purple, shaded maroon. 
Delice. — The best pure bright rose pink, entirely dis- 
tinct, beautiful form. 
Dr. Tyrrell — The flowers are 6 to 8 inches across and 
4 inches deep, with broad reflex pedals. A rich, 
golden bronze. 
Esmeralda — Full, deep flowers ; pale pink, heavily 

tipped deep rich carmine pink. 
Fantasie — A new acquisition ; salmon shaded blue ; 

distinct. 
F. Grinsted — Very large, clear yellow, striped red ; 

strong, vigorous grow'er ; distinct. 
Fireburst — An immense flower; soft red, with long 

stems. 
Flamingo (Bed) — Immense size and most fantastic 
form with long broad twisted and curled petals. 
Color brilliant red. 
Flora — Pure white; large, early, profuse and con- 
tinuous. 

Gabriel Delaon — Dark velvety maroon. 
Gaiety — A beautiful and striking variety; bright cherry red and tipped white. 
Giant of Stuttg-art — Immense size; vivid crimson. 

Glorie Lyonaise — Golden yellow, tipped rosy carmine ; large, early and profuse. 
Golden Wedding — Very large, rich golden yellow. 
Grand Duke Alexis. — White, edged lavender, quilled petals. 
Guillaume de St. Victor — White suffused soft mauve rose. 
Hallebarde — Very large, clear yellow, suflfused scarlet ; distinct and striking. 
Harpon — Citron yellow, heavily tipped red. 
Henri Jordan — Very profuse; rich red. 

Henry Patrick — Large, snow-white flovv-ers, beautiful form and great substance. 
Hohenzollem — Very large and fine dark velvety red. 
Hortulanus Budde — Bright orange red; immense size. 
Hortulanus Fiet — Salmon, yellow center ; very large. 
Hortulanus Witte — Splendid pure white. 

Jack Rose — The best crimson, for garden or cutting, that brilliant crimson. 
Jan Olieslagers — A fine clear yellow. 

Jean Wood. — White suffused violet mauve ; irregular petals. 

J. Lidden Pennock — A dwarf branching plant, producing immense rich, plum-colored flowers. 
John Wanamaker — A beautiful variety; color rich orchid pink; very profuse bloomer; must be disbudded. 
Jumbo — Deep red. shaded maroon. 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria — Large, snow-white; early and profuse bloomer. 
Kinds Pink — Soft pink, with lighter center. 

Kate Seybold — White suffused carmine and maroon, lightly edged white. 
Katherine De La Mare — A surpassing delicate tinted variety that appeals; prinrrose, passing to creamy 

white, lightly suffused soft rose. 
King Albert — Rich velvety plum ; very large and fine. 
La France — Rich cerise. 

Le Grand Manitou — New; immense size; pink, striped rich crimson. 
Lyndhurst — Brightest vermilion; the best bright red for cutting. An early free bloomer. 
Maid of Kent — Rich cherry red, tipped white. 
Manzanola — Bright fiery red. 
Marianne — Distinct purple and white. 

Meadow Gold — Sulphur yellow, with pink shading on outer petals. 

Melody — Color clear canary yellow, tinting to creamy white at the tips; one of the finest. 
Mephisto — Rich velvety crimson. 
Minnie Burgle. — The finest red Dahlia to date; rich cardinal red. 



THE DAHLIA. 



67 




MOROCCO 
grower, bearing the large flowers 



Minnie McCullough — Very striking. Soft 

guidon yellow, tipped bronzy red. 
Miss Alice Roosevelt — Very large white 

shaded lilac. 
Mme. Aymond — \'ery fine shade of 

main f. 
Mme. A. Lumiere — White, tipped bright 

violet red. 
Mme. Marz — Immense size; pure white: 
probably the largest wdiite Dahlia ; 
perfectly full. 
Mme. Vanden Dael — Very large ; silvcr.\ 
rose, shaded rose. 

Mout Blanc A splendid large, white, with 

long, stiff stems. 
Morocco — Rich maroon, lipped white; very 

large, with long, stiff stems. 
Mrs. C. H. Breck — A beautiful variety of 
the Hybrid class ; soft yellow, suf- 
fused carmine. 
Mrs. Chas. Turner — Very large ; clear 

canary yellow. 
Mrs. Fleers — Bright cherry red. 
Mrs. Harrison Dick — One of the most re- 
markable decorative Dahlias. The 
flowers are large of full form ; yel- 
low at the center passing to orange 
and shading to amber at the tips. The plant is a sturdy 
rigid stems. 

Mrs. J. Gardner Cassett — Very large ; bright cerise pink. 

Mrs. Roosevelt — \'ery large soft pink. 

Nymphtea — One of the most delicately beautiful white, suffused shrimp pink. 

Oban — Very large; rosy lavender; overlaid silvery fawn. 

Old Gold — One of the richest autumn shades, old gold, shading to orange. 

Orang-e Beauty An exquisite glistening orange shade; medium size and perfect form. 

Orange King — Richest shade of orange; very profuse biccmer. 

Orange Pearl Rich orange tipped white; distinct and pleasing. 

Oregon — Intense oriental red with carmine suffusion; very fine. 

Papa Charmet — Bright coral red, overlaid dark velvety crimson; the flowers are large. 

Perle de Lyon — Splendid pure white, similar to Perle d'Or, but better. 

Perle de Pare Very large; white with long stiff' stems; profuse bloomer. 

Pink Jack Rose — Rose pink sport of Jack Rose. 

President Fallieres — Bright orange red. 

Prince of Orange — A rich glowing orange. 

Princess Juliana Creamy white ; very free. 

Prof. Lauder Rich crimson carmine, striped red and tipped white; curled and twisted petals. 

Professor Mansfield A pleasing combination of yellow, red and white. 

Propaganda — Large and fine ; primrose yellow, lightly suffused red. 

Queen Mary An improvement over Delice, with full rounded center and a softer shade of pink. 

Richmond — An improved Jack Rose; an early, profuse bloomer; color rich glowing crimson. 

Roem van Nykerk — Dark rich purple. 

Sherlock Holmes — A distinct lilac blue sliade. 

Source de Feu — Orange red, suffused yellow. 

Souv. de Gustav Doazon — Soft scarlet red. 

Souv. de M. Silvent — Another giant flower; bright velvety scarlet. 

Sunlight — Bright lemon yellow. 

Sylvia — Deep pink, tinting to flesh pink at center ; large perfect form. 

Tenor Alverez — A grand autumn variety. Bronze red, striped and penciled ve'.vety brown. 

Torpille Very large, white, overlaid and striped red and plum. 

Ulysses — Very large ; deep rich crimson. 

Variabilis Varies from white to rich bronzy yellow at base of petal. 



THE DAHLIA. 




DECORATIVE DAHLIA, MRS. J. GARDNER CASSATT 

Virginia Maule — Very large; white, delicately suffused slirinip iiink. 
Wm. Agnew — Very large; dazzling crimson scarlet. Early and profuse bloomer. 
Yellow Colosse — Very large ; light or lemon yellow ; a most remarkably free liloomer. 
Yellow Duke — Canary yellow, quilled petals ; a giant flower on long stems. 
Zeppelin — Large extra fine ; color light lilac. 



BALL DAHLIAS 



A. D. Livoui — Clear, bright pink, quilled petals ; the best pink show Dahlia. 

Admiral Schley — Rich garnet, tinting to carmine and white at tips of petals. 

Agent — Delicate, soft pink. 

Arabella — C)ne of the loveliest; soft primrose, shaded and tipped rose. 

Arthur Le Favour — \'ery large ; buff, striped dark red. 

Caleb Powers. — Shell pink; large and fine. 

Chas. Lanier — Very large ; golden yellow, shaded amber. 

Chieftain — Purplish lilac; large, distinct. 

Claret Cup — Rich claret, tipped gold. 

Colonist — Coral red, edged lighter; splendid form. 

Daniel Cornish — Fine terra-cotta red. 

David Johnson — Fawn or salmon, shaded rose; quilled, fine. 

Delia Dorshermer — Large, soft shrimpping, quilled petals; long, slender stems, 

Dorothy Peacock — The world's best pink. 

Dreers White — A pure white of large size and formation of Grand Duke .-\lexis. 

Dr. Keynes — Buff, tipped red ; fine. 

Duchess of York — Yellow, flushed salmon pink, edged red. 

Elegans — Bright rosy purple, tipped white, quilled petals. 

Emily May — Yellow, blotched bronzy red. 



THE DAHLIA. 69 




BALL DAHLL\, A. D. LIVONI 

Ethel Britton — Blush white, edged rosy purple. 

Ethel Maule — A magnificent pure white, of largest size and fine form. 

Fern-Leaved Beauty Rich red, tipped white, with fern-like foliage. 

Frank Smith — Rich maroon, tipped white. 
George Rawlings — Rich, velvety maroon. 
Gold Crest — Yellow, striped and blotched red. 
Goldfinch — Yellow and red. 

Goldfinder Yellow, tipped red. 

Gold Medal Brightest yellow, spotted and penciled vermilion. 

Goldsmith Yellow, edged and striped bright crimson ; a magnificent flower. 

Gov. Guild — Very large; pure white with long, stifT stems; extra. 
Gracchus — Bright orange and buff. 

Hannah Large; soft pink, tinting to cream center, with fern-like foliage and long stems. 

Harry Keith — Large ; rosy purple. 

Henry Walton Y'ellow. edged vermilion. 

Isabel Xew and distinct; primrose, shading to buff, overlaid and tipped rose. 

John Bennett — Fine form : yellow, tipped bright red. 
John Rawlings — Rich crimson. 

John Walker Splendid snow-white show Dahlia; perfect form and free bloomer. 

Keystone — Pleasing lilac pink, penciled crimson; very fine. 

Le Ai-mour Very large ; bright, lively pink on long, stiff stems ; very fine. 

Lucy Fawcett Very large ; pale yellow, penciled carmine. 

Marjorie — Buff, tipped carmine ; very fine. 

Maud Fellows A delicately beautiful flower, soft pink, of splendid form. 

May Lomas — White, suffused soft lavender, edged blue. 
Merlin. — \'ery early ; soft scarlet ; fine. 
Meteor — Immense size; bright vermilion. 
Miss Alice King — .\ splendid pure white. 

Miss Browning Clear, rich, canary yellow, tipped white; beautiful and chaste. 

Miss F. M. Shearer .\ lovely variety; deep pink with light tips, giving it a soft, warm effect. 



70 THE DAHLIA. 

Mme. H. Fui-tado — Very large; pure white; a free bloomer, with long stems. 

Mme. Von Toniine — Very large ;' yellow and red. 

JIts. Fisher — White, edged rose. 

Mrs. Gladstone — Soft, shell pink. 

Mrs. Saunders — Yellow, tipped white ; large and fine. 

KTorma — Yellow, shaded golden amber. 

Octavia — Yellow, shaded orange. 

Paul Bert — Immense scarlet-red flowers on very long stems. 

Penelope — White flaked, rosy lake; beautiful and chaste. 

Perfection — Very large; soft lilac. 

Pink Swan — A silvery rose pink, sport of white Swan. 

Plesance — Intense vermilion red; very large and fine. 

Prince Bismarck — Rich, velvety purple. 

Princess Victoria — The finest pure yellow show Dahlia. Clear, pure canary. 

Queen Victoria — Rich golden yellow. 

Red Hussar — Richest dazzling cardinal red. Best red shi:>\v Dahlia for cutting. 

Rose — An exquisite ball Dahlia of full, regular form and a bright, lively carmine rose. 

Ruby Queen — Ruby red, richly shaded. 

Souv. de Mme. Alfred Moreau Very large ; cerise pink. 

Storm King — The earliest white show Dahlia; perfect form and extremely profuse bloomer. 

Susan — Soft blush pink; medium size, splendid form and free bloomer. 

Tom Jones — Cream yellow, edged mauve pink ; especially fine. 

Uncertainty — Varies from blush pink to dark red. with all the intermedial variations. 

Victor — Fine, rich crimson. 

Warrior — Intense scarlet. 

White Dandy — A large snow-white Dahlia of perfect ball form on very long stems. 

Wliite Swan — Large; pure white; reliable. 



POMPON DAHLIAS 



Adelaide — Blush, edged lavender. 

Adrienne — Crimson, tipped scarlet. 

Alewine — White, suffused pink. 

Arthur West — Rich crimson. 

Belle of Springfield — Very small; soft red, sometimes tipped white. 

Bob — Yellow, edged scarlet. 

Catherine — Clear canary yellow. 

Cheerfulness — Old gold, tipped crimson. 

Clarissa — Pale primrose. 

Crusoe — White, heavily edged pink. 

Daisy — Pleasing shade of amlier-salnion. 

Elfin — Soft, creamy white. 

Fairy Queen — Yellow, edged rose. 

Girlie — Pinkish mauve. 

Glow. — Very line; rich coral. 

Guiding Star — Pure white; serated petals. 

Hedwig Pollig — Very distinct; shades of red, tipped white. 

Helen Lambert — Clear yellow. 

Klein Domitea — Bright, golden terra-cotta. Very profuse. 

Laddie — Light crimson, edged rose. 

Lassie — Y'ellow, edged and tipped rose. 

Lilian — Primrose, edged pink. 

Little Beauty — Soft, silvery pink; closely quilled petals. 

Little Frank — Amber, shaded salmon. 

Little Herman — Cardinal red, tipped white. 

Little Prince — Crimson, tipped white. 

Little Sweetheart — Red, tipped white. 

Madeline — Primrose, edged rosy-purple. 

Mars — Very bright scarlet. 

Neatness — Salmon-pink 



THE DAHLIA. 



71 



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Nerissa — Soft rose-pink. 
Phoebe — Deep orange. 

Raphael Darked maroon ; quilled petals. 

Rougiere Chauviere — Crimson, pink and white ; distinct. 

San Toy — White, heavily edged rosy carmine. 

Seashell — Soft, shell pink. 

Snowclad — The best pure white pompon. 

Splendens Imbricata — Brightest scarlet. 

Star of the East — Pure white; long stems. 

Sunshine Richest vermilion-scarlet; splendid little flowers on long stems. 

Tom — Soft, creamy yellow. 
Violet — Pure white. 



72 



TIJk DAHLIA. 




ONE TYPE OF P.EONY DAHLIA 



P/EONY DAHLIAS 

America — A beautiful Dahlia; pure shrimp-pink with gukk-n sut^'usion; haliit ideal. 

Andrew Carnegie — A line, lively rose-pink. 

Ant. Rivoire — Very large ; rich crimson ; fine long stems. 

Bayard — Vivid orange-scarlet; veins and base yellow. 

Berch Van Heenstede Primrose-yellow with rich, golden sheen; flowers of medium size; very free. 

Caesar — Large, clear canary-yellow. 

Chatenay — A splendid, soft carmine-rose shaded crimson; good, stitT stems. 

Duke Henry — Large; bright crimson. 

Dremont van Bystein Blue lilac. 

Doctor A. Kuyper — Orange. 



THE DAHLIA. 75 

Doctor Perry One of the darkest, a brilliant reddish-mahogany. 

Geisha The most striking color combination; golden yellow, changing to bright scarlet at the center of the 

jictal and back to gold at the tip. 

Gypsey Weaver A rich shade of bronzy-yellow with pointed, twisted petals. 

Holinan Hunt Very dark rich crimson ; large and fine ; one of the best. 

H. J. Lovink — \'ery large; lilac. 

Ironmonger Very large size, with long, graceful stems; pale lavender, with a delicate suggestion of pink 

tbroui;liiiut. 

King Leopold Creamy yellow, shading to deep primrose. 

Konigen Emma .V charming sliade of mallow or hollyhock-pink, the inner petals banded with gold. 

Konigen Wilhelmina Immense fluffy flowers of pure white with yellow center. 

Lady Nonna \'ery large, well-formed flower; color soft salmon-pink. 

Leo XIII A deep canary-yellow, entirely distinct in form; large; very free flowering. 

Lilac Color soft lilac ; immense flowers, with long broad petals ; a strong vigorous grower with long stems. 

Landseer Very large ; rich crimson, shaded maroon, with velvety sheen. 

La Riante Bright lilac; very large, beautiful flowers. 

Lord Mllner — Yellow, suffused crimson. 

Louise Hogg A seedling of the celebrated Geisha, but considereil by many a great improvement over that 

variety. It is larger, a stronger grower, with darker foliage, and a more profuse bloomer. It is, how- 
ever, entirely distinct from Geisha as the colors are softer and more subdued. A splendid companion 
for that variety. Color is light yellow at the base of the petal, shading to soft red at the center, tipped 
yellow. The flowers are immense, with long Ijroad, twisted and incurved petals. 

Lullingstone Very large; rich terra-cotta red; splendidly formed flower. 

Madame Van Loon — Orange. 

Monarch A new .\nierican variety of enormous size, often 7 to 8 inches; rich crimson, shaded darker. 

Mondscheibe — Rich primrose yellow ; very fine. 

Mrs. Carter Lewis — Pale lilac, sufifused with rose. 

Mrs. G. Gordon — Very large; sulphur yellow, tinting lighter toward the tips. 

Mrs. McMundy — Lilac mauve; long stems; very free. 

Mrs. McKeller — Terra-cotta, shaded salmon. 

Mrs. Robt. Bates — Pink-white on long stiff stems; early and profuse bloomer. 

Mrs. Wm. Kerr See illustration, page 2. One of the finest; large, of beautiful twisted, irregular for- 
mation ; color rich cream, suffused pink, and overlaid carmine. 

Paul Ki-uger Very large and fine; white suffused pink, shaded carmine. 

Peace — Pure white. 

Peacock's Black Jet black in the bud, softening to a maroon black as the flowers expand. .^ novel feature 

is the center of the mature flower, which is also black instead of yel'.ow as in other varieties. 

Peacock's Yellow Immense size, clear canary yellow, of splendid form and substance. Undoubtedly the 

best clear yellow p;eony. 

Phidias .A. lovely shade of salmon-pink; long, stiff stems. 

Poinsettia — Rich geranium lake, shading to carmine red at tips; distinctive type. 

Porcupine — White, suffused and mottled Tyrian rose. 

Rembrandt — Dark yellow. 

Salome — Large and fine; a lovely shade of apricot. 

South Pole — .\n immense pure white flower of great substance and splendid form. 

Selma — Rose. 

Tansboro — Crimson and white ; distinct. 



74 



THE DAHLIA. 




BASKET CENTURY DAHLIAS 



THE DAHLIA. 



75 




NEW CENTLIRY DAHLIA, GLADYS 

NEW CENTURY 

Alice — A superb pure white century with long stiff stems. 

Anna Long Clear rosy pink, with white band running through each petal; sometimes solid pink. 

Apple Blossom Century — A giant form of the lovely .Apple Blossom Single ; rich apple blossom pink, with 

soft pink zone around the yellow disc. 
Autumn Century A great acquisition. The flowers are very large, with long, broad, slightly cupped and 

pointed petals. The color blends from yellow at the base of petals to a rich golden bronze. Long stiff 

stems and splendid keeper. 
Barton — Large, fine form and finisli : color rich vermilion red. 

Blush Century Very large; soft blush pink; height 4"^ feet. 

Brilliant — This is one of the brightest, being a fiery geranium scarlet. 

Bronze Century A great acquisition; very large, golden yellow, suffused and overlaid salmon-scarlet, giving 

it a rich bronzy effect. 
Cardinal Century — Very large; rich cardinal red; the best deep red. Height S feet. 

Constant Century Like Twentieth Century, but holds its color, hence the name. Height 4 feet. 

Congo — Rich maroon, edged and flamed purple ; very fine. 
Contrast — Vermihon tipped wliite, very effective. 

Cream Century Color a rich cream which suggested the name. A fine companion to Mrs. Wendell Reber. 

Crimson Century Rich crimson, rose band around disc. Height 4 feet. 



76 THE DAHLIA. 

Delicatissima Century — Very large, with long, pointed petals. Color white, flushed pink. 

Dounie Century Richest vermilion-red. Height 4 feet. 

Eleanor — Wry larye. white, heavily tipped lavender. 

Fringed Maroon Century — Rich velvety maroon, with long fringed petals. 

Fringed Twentietli Century — The first of a new race, with cleft or serated petals. A great improvement of 

Twentieth Century, much larger, brighter color, while the stems are long, slender and stiff. Color bright 

rosy crimson, with lighter markings. 

Garnet Century Rich garnet color, large; long, stiff ttems. 

Geisha Century This is an intensified Mrs. Wendell Reber. Tlie inner half of tlie petal is a rich yellow, 

the outer half is an intensely rich scarlet. The Geisha colors, hence the name. 
George Young — An exquisite clear yellow century, very tine. 
Gertrude An improved Twentieth Century, clear rosy crimson with wliite zone around the yellow disc, 

and white tips. 
Gigajitea Alba Century — Snow white, of immense size: beautiful form. Height 5 feet. 
Gladys Century Center of petals rosy crimson, with rose-pink band on either side and w'hite zone around 

the yellow center. 
Gloxinia A striking type of tlie Century Dahlia. Velluw zone around the golden disc; maroon band in 

center of petal, with crimson margin and tipped white. .A striking, pleasing color combination. 

Golden Wave Soft golden yellow; a very profuse bloomer, large and fine. 

Hazel Heiter — Rich crimson, shaded with white tips and white zone around yellow center. 

Iris Century — Immense size; purple blotch on rosy lake ground. Height 5 feet. 

Jack Harding' — Rich velvety maroon, with a glowing satin sheen. 

James Weller A gorgeous Autumn shaded Century. Immense size, rich yellow shaded to golden coppery 

bronze ; long stems. .\ splendid exhibition and commercial variety. 
Josephine — The acme of perfection in snow-white. The flowers are very large, splendid regular form. 
Lavender Century — Immense size, splendid form; color soft lavender. 

Lemon Century Clear lemon yellow edged lighter; large and fine, stiff stems. 

Leone — White flushed lavender; delicate and chaste. 

Madeline Large and strikingly attractive, rose pink with white znne around the yellow- disc. 

Margaret Long — Very large, soft pink suffused carmine. 

Model Century — Snow-white, very large, fine form, good substance, profuse bloomer on long stems. 

Mrs. J. C. Hance Century Bright carmine-pink, with Ijlush white disc. .\n exquisitely lovely flower, of 

largest size, with long stems. 
Mrs. Joseph Lucas — A combination of shades that we called autumn; it is a rich yellow overlaid bronzy- 
scarlet, lightened, suffused and edged salmon-rose. 
Mrs. Wendell Reber — 

Natalie — Bright rosy crimson ; large and distinct. 
Nellie — Very large, wdiite edged pink; a lovely combination. 
Orange Century — Rich orange: fine large flowers on long stems. 
Penciled Century — Rose pink, shaded cerise, penciled crimson: distinct. Height 4 feet. 

Poppy Century 

Primrose Century — \'ery delicate and chaste, profuse yellow, shading primrose pink. 
Rose-Pink Century — The largest and best deep pink ; enormous flowers on long 3 feet stems. 

Summer Girl Very large, clear pure yellow, without tint or blemish ; petals long and broad. 

Sunset Centui-y — Rich yellow, tipped and shaded amber and bronze. Height 5 feet. 

Twentieth Century 

Vermilion Century — Very large, brilliant vermilion, without shade or blemish. 

White Century — Immense size; snow-white. Height 5 feet. 

White Giant — Immense size, long broad rounded petals. Flowers are of great substance and borne on long, 

stiff stems. Color, snow-white. 
Wildfire Century — Century size, with the brilliant, rich scarlet of the old wildfire. 
Yellow Boy — Clear canary yellow ; fine formed large fli.nvers on long stems. 

DUPLEX DAHLIAS 

Big Chief — Rich crimson, margined maroon. A very strong, vigorous plant, with fern-like foliage. 
Canary — Pure canar\--yellow of very largest size; an early, free and continuous bloomer. 
Mme. J. Coissard The color effect is most distinct and charming; bright rosy crimson, with lighter mark- 
ings, and a pure white zone around the yellow disc. ^ 
Sensation — Vermilion-red. tipped snow-white ; distinct and striking. 

Souv. de Franz Liszt Very large; crimson, richly shaded with w-hite marking.s. 

Sunny Jim Bright yellow, lilending with red. deepening toward the end, and ending with a yellow tip. 

Variegated Liszt — Dark Oriental red. with yellow tips and markings. 



THE DAHLIA. 




NEW SINGLE DAHLIA, "VELXET." SHOWING SELECT TYPE 
OF SINGLE DAHLIAS 



SINGLE DAHLIAS (Old Fashioned) 

Advance — Richest crimson, shaded maroon ; hylit zciie artiund }cllo\v center. 

Alba Superba — A beautiful pure white. Height 3J4 feet. 

Ami Barlllet — The maroon of purple foliage DahUa. Color richest garnet. 

Apple Blossom Delicate pink, heavily tipped deep carmine-pink. 

Blackbird — Maroon, shaded black, with red spot at base of each petal. 

Danish Cross Scarlet, with white band running through each petal ; ver)- distinct. 

Florabunda — Soft lavender, with deep lavender zone around the yellow center. 

Graillardia Golden yellow, with a broad band of red around the yellow center. 

Hilda — Carinine-pink with zone of white suffused pink around the yellow center. 
Mary — An ideal single; clear, soft pink. 

Praxitelles Richest maroon, tipped white; always true to type; distinct and effective. 

Rantendelein Color pure white; each petal has a narrow margin of deep crimson on each side. 

Rebecca Mayhew — An absolutely perfect single white- 
Ruth — Pure white, margined yellow. 

Sardanopol — Rich scarlet, with band of orange through the center of each petal. 
St. George — The best clear canary-yellow single Dahlia. 

St. G-eorge Improved Flowers clear canary-yellow and twice the size of St. George, on longer stems. 

Velvet — Velvety maroon, with red marking at base of each petal. 

White Cross Soft rosy lake with a pure white stripe running through the center of each petal. 



78 



THE DAHLIA. 




COLLECTION OF 12 COLLARETTE DAHLIAS 



THE DAHLIA. 79 



COLLARETTE DAHLIAS 

This uniquely distinct class or type is rajjidly gainini; in popularity. The flowers are 
single with a row of smaller or collar petals around the center. These collar petals are gen- 
erally distinct in color from the rest of the flower. 

Airdale Garnet, shaded maroon flamed crimson, yellow base; crimson, maroon tipped white collar. 

Albert Maumene Velvety crimson-purple, margined white, collarette white. 

AUston Rich crimson ; crimson and white collar. 

Altro — Crimson edged white; collar white, flushed crimson. 

Anoka Large crimson and white, with white collar. 

Arbeka Dark rich garnet; white suffused garnet collar. 

Arden — Rich bronzy red, collar yellow and red. 

Atglen Rich maroon, flamed crimson; crimson and white collar. 

Autumn Yellow, shading to bronzy red; rich yellow collar. 

Bajadere.. — Dark velvety crimson, band.ed maroon; collarette same shading. 
Banker — Rich scarlet ; collar scarlet tipped yellow. 

Belmont Rosy crimson tinting white at tip, and a white zone around center ; collar white suffused rose. 

Burg Siefurch Velvety brown, collarette red tipped light. 

Carlton — Bright garnet; garnet and white collar. 

Catlin Scarlet tipped yellow ; yellow suffused scarlet collar. 

Chabanne — Yellow and coral red ; striking. 

Chalfont Carmine tipped white; white collar, very eft'ective. 

Ceutm-y A beautiful collarette of the Twentieth Century colors ; crimson tinting to pink with white tips 

and white zone ; crimson and white collar. 
Countess Hardegg — Carmine rose, white collar. 
Comte. Chermeteff — Cream suffused red ; light collar. 
Crown Princess Charlotte — Very large and distinct ; bright chestnut red, with long, yellow collar. 

Diadem Large, brilliant carmine rose ; collar white with carmine markings. 

Diamant Beautiful shade, velvety violet, light rose collar. 

Diomedes Rose bordered white; white collar. 

Dorian — Crimson shaded maroon ; crimson and white collar. 
Drayton — Very large, rich maroon, with white collar. 

Dr. Gerard Rosy-purple, bordered and splashed white; white collar. 

Duch. M. Barbo — Y'ellow suffused red. 

Elgrave — Duplex collarette. Large pointed petals, ri 'li maroon ; collar maroon tipped white. 

Exposition de Lyon — Beautiful red; white collar. 

Fayette Very effective, it being a duplex collarette; rich scarlet with bright yellow collars. 

Henri Farman — Yellow blotched red; cream collarette. 

Innovation This is entirely distinct, as it is double with full high center when first opening. The largest of 

all, ninst attractive and effective. Color rich mauve with crimson base; carmine lavender collar petals. 
Johannesf eur — Bright red ; yellow collarette. 
Jules Buyessens — Rose ; white collar. 

Jupiter — Bright yellow, shaded red; straw-colored collarette. 
Lanark — Crimson ; collar white suffused carmine. 
Leitstein — Very dark crimson ; white collarette. 

Lindsay An exquisite variety. Rosy crimson, white tip and white zone: with white flushed crimson collar. 

Leuehtfeur — Golden yellow, tinged with orange-red; sulphur-yellow collarette. 
Maurice Revoir — Rich crimson-maroon ; white collarette. 
Merion — Yellow and scarlet. The "Geisha" collarette. 
Merton — Yellow suffused scarlet; clear yellow collar. 

Mei-ville de Lyon Yellow splashed red, yellow collarette. 

M. Empain — Red, with yellow collar. 

Mme. Claessens — Red, with yellow collar. 

Mme. Pile — Red with citron-yellow tips ; long white and yellow collarette. 

Mme. E. Wauters Crimson tipped gold, yellow base, with yellow collarette. 

Mme. F. G. Bruant Rich velvety maroon, with white collarette; large and fine. 

Mme. L. Viger — Bright crimson pointed petals; white collar. 

Mons. Bourguignon — Wine red ; buff collarette. 

Mons. L. Ferard Rich rosy crimson, edged and marked white; very large collar of same color. 



80 



THE DAHLIA. 



Nantick — Velvety niaroun : marotin and white collar. 

Norman Rosy crimson, white collar. 

Oi-phee — Bright red, tipped yellow ; orange collar. 

Prince Carnival — White margined dark red; white collar. 

Prince de Venosa — Beautiful shade of purple; white collar. 

Prince G-alitzine — White suiifused pink; white collar. 

Princess Louise — Carmine and white. 

Purity — Snow white ; snow white collar. 

Radlyn — Soft, clear pink ; collar same color. 

Radnor Large, white tips and base with rosy purple lilotch in center; collar white flushed crimson. 

Regularity — Very large and fine; scarlet with white collar. 

Selwin — Scarlet ; with yellow collar. 

Souv. de Bemadeau — Beautiful shade of old rose; cream collar; very distinct. 

Turpin — Maroon, margined ruby wine ; ruby red, tipped white collar. 

Valdora — Rosy crimson, yellow base, purple tip ; collar yellow, tipped crimson. 

Walton Garnet ; yellow and garnet collar. 

Warnick — Garnet shaded maroon; garnet and yellow collar. 

Wilfoi-d Soft carmine red, tipped purple; collar yellow, tipped red. 

Winona Vivid crimson, tipped purple ; crimson collar. 




NEW ANEMONE OR TIN-CUSHION DAHLIAS. A UNIQUELY 

DISTINCTIVE NEW TYPE THAT HAS GREAT 

POSSIBILITIES FOR DECORATIVE 

PURPOSES 



I 't^5^>^ ^f CONGRESS 

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 337 910 7 



